Thursday, July 26, 2007

Louka Lu

*Update: This restaurant has dropped the "o" from its name and is now called Luka Lu

"All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

I love discovering and trying new restaurants. Of course, there are risks. But, the benefits of dining on the razor's edge far outweigh the disappointments.

Recently, we got a tip that a Balkan restaurant had just opened in Malá Strana. We strapped on our dining gear and headed over.

Louka Lu is on Újezd, and has four tables out in front. It does get a bit noisy there with all the trams going by on this busy route. But, there were big sunflowers outside that added to the good feeling on a sunny Saturday.

Inside, they've completely done over the space, with bright colors on the walls, interesting decorative tiles on the floors, and all new furniture and table settings. I believe it used to be occupied by a standard Czech pub.

There area also a number of whimsical touches, like a pastel-painted little table, chair, and lamp attached to the ceiling. There is also a mini faux terrace above the dining area with little chairs on it. It was a little too cute and doll house-like for me, but it is easy enough to not look up.

They bring good bread along with very intense black and green olives. On the side, there is a cheese similar to American cream cheese or Czech lučina. It is a nice alternative to butter.

For a starter, I ordered the prosciutto and melon for 150 CZK. The prosciutto was moist and tender and the cantaloupe was the sweetest I've had in a very long time. This refreshing dish is often spoiled by unripe melon. Not here. If they can keep up the melon quality in winter, I'd order it more often. I love the contrast between sweet and salty.

V got the grilled peppers with garlic and oil for 90 CZK. Served cold, this is another good summer appetizer. We liked it, but thought it could use a shot of vinegar. They weren't quite tart enough for our us. There is balsamic vinegar on the table that I liked very much. It is syrupy and on the sweet side.
For a main course, I had the grilled calamari for 220 CZK. They were small, but fresh and tender, and there are about a dozen on the plate. There is also an olive oil, herb, and garlic dip, and a lemon wedge with a convenient metal squeezer.
The waitress told us they were cooked on a lava grill, but I did wish there was a little more of a smoky flavor. I liked them a lot, but thought they were on the bland side. The olive oil didn't quite jazz it up enough for me, and there was only one small lemon wedge. So, I put a shot of the balsamic on the side of my plate. A little dip in there was exactly what I was looking for.

Another nice touch was the cherry tomatoes on the side. They were left on the vine and lightly grilled so that they were slightly blackened on the bottom. The tomatoes also softened up and had great flavor.

I also thought it was interesting that items like potatoes are not included with main course, but the waitress did not suggest or press that we order any. As it was, I was didn't want anything, but I thought it could slip by you if you are not paying attention. If you want a side with your main course, it is up to you to order it.

V ordered the seafood mixed grill. It came with crayfish, prawns, and calamari. They seemed to pick up more of the flavor from the grill.

The plate also had the grilled tomatoes, olive oil mixture, and lemon wedge on the side. The waitress brought a finger bowl for cleaning up.

They didn't have Mattoni or other Czech choices for sparkling water, so we had two .75 liter bottles of Perrier at 95 CZK a pop. V
ordered the house red wine, which was 50 CZK a glass. She said it was very good. I forgot to ask if it was Croatian.

Finally, we really enjoyed the Croatian music they played over the sound system. There were several different styles, from classic folk songs to more stylish, jazz influenced tunes.

When we are wandering in the area and spontaneously looking for something to eat, we almost always end up at Cafe Savoy. This particular area of Malá Strana has a handful of other decent restaurants, but it is not exactly overflowing with quality, mid-range choices.

It's not exceptional, but we like Louka Lu. I think a few Praguers and out-of-town visitors will, too. I don't know if we'll make regular plans to go, but when we are in the neighborhood, I'm sure we'll be experimenting there again.

Louka Lu
Újezd 33
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 257 212 388

For another perspective, you can read The Prague Post's review of the same restaurant, written a month after this post.

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Monday, July 23, 2007

Fraktal - Brunch

I have written about Fraktal before. They do have pretty good hamburgers. But what I really like most is their Saturday-Sunday brunch menu.

And what I like most specifically about their brunch is their "breakfast enchilada." It doesn't seem to fit the classic definition of an enchilada -- no corn tortilla -- but I won't quibble.
The menu says it is a flour tortilla, filled with scrambled eggs, spicy klobasa, and sofrito. The "klobasa" had nice flavor, but was a little hot dog-like in consistency. Sofrito is usually chopped onions, pepper, and tomatoes, but I had a hard time seeing some on the inside. The menu says there is melted cheese, salsa, cilantro, and crème fraiche on the outside. I think there is a little enchilada sauce hidden under there.

In the end, I really don't know. It was early and it is very, very dark in there. Anyway, it doesn't matter. These are not complaints, just minor confusions.

I love this breakfast -- Real comfort food that reminds me of a restorative morning meal I once had in Ensenada. Or was it lunch in Rosarita Beach? Again, I don't really know, but I do know that Fraktal's dish also comes with black beans and rice and costs 150 CZK.

You can only order from the brunch menu during brunch hours on the weekend from 11:00-15:30, and it slants strongly toward Mexican-style dishes.

Another offering is huevos rancheros for 125 CZK. The menu says it has "Two fried eggs, melted cheese, Cuban-style black beans, cilantro, crème fraiche, salsa, and shredded lettuce served on a grilled flour tortilla."

It has a lot of similar components to the breakfast enchilada, but I could do without the lettuce, myself.

If you want to go non-Mexican, there is the Pipérade Omelette for 130 CZK. This is a "three-egg omelette with Pipérade (a traditional Basque vegetable blend with onions, peppers, fresh tomatoes and bacon sautéed in olive oil."It comes with homemade garlic mashed potatoes and a small salad.

For the vegetarians, there is the "Big Salad" for 115 CZK. It is a tossed green salad with feta cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers and grilled vegetables. It is served with goat cheese crostini and Balsamic mustard vinaigrette. V said it was just OK.

They also do steak and eggs (135 CZK), corn muffin and eggs (90 CZK), crepes with fruit (115 CZK), scrambled eggs and bacon with mashed potatoes, tossed salad, and a grilled tomato (115 CZK), and a club sandwich (95 CZK).

You can see the whole brunch menu online here.

Did I mention it is dark inside? This subterranean space is a popular bar and hangout, especially for expats. It can pull in the crowds at night.

During the day, there is mininal lighting, and even with small windows, it is hard to see your food in some areas. V didn't like eating in such dim light.

Fraktal is something of a labyrinth and there are a few back rooms where you can disappear. But they are big enough that they could handle a big group of around 12 of my friends.

There is also the bar area up front, which has a few tables. For some, after a long night, the lack of any harsh glare could be a good thing.

However, if you want bright light and fresh air, you can try to score one of the few outdoor tables on the street. I've said before, Prague is not a big breakfast town. But when I'm hungering for big meal on a weekend morning, Fraktal is one of the few places I can go that satisfies.

Fraktal Bar Restaurace
Šmeralova 1
Prague 7
Tel. (+420) 777 794 094

You can read an earlier post on Fraktal's hamburger here.

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Friday, July 20, 2007

Picante (Closed)

"Men of the South! It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees!"
- Emiliano Zapata (1879-1919)
R.I.P. Picante

I'd heard the complaints about the fluctuating prices. I'd heard the complaints about fluctuating quality. I could even do some complaining myself.
But now, with the news of Picante's demise, I'm left with a burning hole in my heart rather than my wallet or stomach.

Why?
Say what you want about this so-called "Fresh-Mex" joint, it was open late and had a central location off Náměstí Republiky, not far from Old Town Square.

When drinking heavily in the area, it was the fast food place to stumble into and fill up on quesadillas or burritos before heading home.

Sure, I only ended up there a few times a year. But it was good to know it was there when I needed it. I have some warm, but foggy memories of the place.

The grapevine speculates that Picante was done in by some of the negative factors mentioned earlier, but also that this small shop had the misfortune of being located next to one of Prague's biggest construction projects, The Palladium shopping mall.

Tram service was cut off for a long period of time, and sidewalks and streets were blocked off, as well.

And now they are dead. Via con dios, muchachos!

Restaurant In Peace

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