Many months ago, I called Kogo at Slovanský dům my overall favorite restaurant in Prague. That's still true.
There are many reasons for that, not all of them having to do with the food. There is something very comforting and familiar about the place for us. We've been there countless times over the years. There's a history.
Kogo had a few dishes that were long-time, regular favorites. Those favorites are still there, even though the menu changed recently and the prices have gotten higher.
We went the other night and had a wonderful dinner. I've written in the past about my love for Kogo's risotto alla pescatora (295 CZK). V ordered this great seafood dish, and we love it as much as ever (see the earlier post for more pictures).
But since V got my usual dinner, I decided to try something from the new menu. I ordered the risotto alla parmigiana con filetto di agnello al profumo di menta. It is risotto with baby lamb and freshly chopped mint (385 CZK).
To describe this dish, I hesitate to use a word that has been overused in the realm of culinary discussion, but, in this situation, I think it is called for:
YUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!
Mama, it was good. This creamy, chewy risotto is heavily infused with savory, wonderfully flavored lamb gravy -- so much so that it pools around the edges of the dish. The fresh mint is a delight with every bite. There were also small cubes of eggplant on top.
The cubes of lamb on top were a little overcooked for my taste. By themselves, they were not so special, but mixed together with the risotto on the fork, and it was a wonderous combination.
V and I shared our risottos, and switching back and forth between the dishes made me appreciate it even more. They are very different, but both have their strengths.
I wasn't in a big picture-taking mood this evening, so there are no more photos.
We also had beef carpaccio (310 CZK). It was a decent version, with plenty of rucola, shaved Parmesan cheese, and lemon wedges.
It is also worth noting that after serving Budar beer for many years, Kogo has switched to Pilsner Urquell. It is 55 CZK for a .3 liter glass.
Sunday, December 2, 2007
Kogo at Slovanský dům - Update
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Aldente Trattoria Italiana
"We may define therapy as a search for value."
-Abraham Maslow, the father of humanistic psychology
I've been in therapy for a long time. When it comes to food and drink, my search is never ending.
It's not the price that counts. I've found value in a sausage on Wenceslas Square. I've found value in a lobster salad at The Alcron.
In a search for something new, we went for dinner at an Italian restaurant in Old Town called Aldente Trattoria Italiana.
It took over the space of a cafe called Blatouch that was an old favorite of intellectuals and journalists. Though it reopened in Vinohrady, the passing of its Old Town location is much lamented in certain circles.
The new Aldente interior is very colorful and bright. Too bright for me. There are lights everywhere. They glare off the intensely yellow walls. Candles on the table are always a nice touch, but they'd have better effect if they turned down the wattage in the room.
There are some nice, rustic touches -- dark-stained hardwood floors, red and white table cloths, and a central table featuring various cheeses and cured hams. To pay for those table coverings, there is a 45 CZK per person cover charge. More on that later.
Our waiter was Italian, adding to the feeling of authenticity.
On the other hand, he spoke very little Czech or English, which caused difficulty and some frustration on the communications front.
The menu was a fairly brief document. As a starter, I ordered orechiette with fresh tomato and scamorza cheese. And yes, it was al dente.
For the most part, what you see is what you get -- pasta on top of melted, chewy cheese, mixed with chunks of cooked tomatoes. A sprig of fresh basil sat on top of it all. There was also the pleasing flavor of what tasted like pancetta.
Overall, it was quite simple. I enjoyed it. Was it worth 180 CZK? Let me think about it.
V got the seafood pasta. It is cooked in aluminum foil. This foil is molded into the shape of a swan before it is brought out.
The dish was full of small clams and very small shrimp. Again, there was not a lot of complexity here, but there was plenty of pasta, full of the steamed in flavor of the sea.
Was it worth 220 CZK? I wavered on the edge here, but I'll go with a 'yes' on this one.
For a main course, I ordered lamb chops with grilled vegetables. You do get five of them, and they are fairly meaty.
But, there was little that was special about them, in regards to preparation and seasoning. They were not particularly tender.
The grilled vegetables were nice, but very plain, and I wouldn't mind having a few more. A large lettuce leaf covered what would otherwise be a large expanse of naked plate.
I know lamb is not cheap. But was it worth 380 CZK? Not for me. I wouldn't order it again.
V got the langoustines. They were expertly cooked, and the tails were delicious.
However, the photo doesn't give much perspective. They were small little buggers. There was not much meat in the tails, and even less in the other parts.
And there were just three of them, resting on lettuce that covered and otherwise large expanse of naked plate (sound familiar?).
I was pretty disappointed how little food there was for 500 CZK. So, no, I don't think it was worth the money.
We had an Italian Cabernet for 460 CZK. It was one of the cheaper bottles on the wine list. Forgive me, I can't tell you the label, but I didn't like it very much. It was too intense for me -- not a subtle wine at all.
The final bill for our meal, with two course each, plus wine and a tip, was a little over 2000 CZK.
As a whole, I can't say I appreciated the meal on a value for money level. I can think of many other places I'd choose first when spending that kind of money.
And after looking at the bill today, it appears we were charged the cover charge twice. It says "ostatni 2x45" on one part of the bill. At the bottom, it again says "ostatni 90." Both were definitely a part of the total. I can't think of any reason that charge would be there twice.
Not a happy discovery.
I do think we would have been happier if we stopped after just the starters. Both pasta dishes we had were relatively filling. That would have felt more like value for money.
But Aldente Trattoria Italiana actually looks cheap compared to the two Italian restaurants across the street, Amici Miei and Vinodivino.
I've heard some good things about those other places, in spite of the high costs. Then again, I'd heard a good review of Aldente from a visiting tourist. This person really liked it a lot. So, you never know if your feelings about quality and value are the same as someone else's.
Anyway, Vězeňská Street has turned into something of a Little Italy for Prague dining, but with Wall Street prices.
And speaking of Wall Street, I'll leave you now with the words of Gordon Gekko:
"Money itself isn't lost or made, it's simply transferred from one perception to another."
Aldente Trattoria Italiana
Vězeňská 4
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 222 313 185
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
My Favorite Things
I was in a reflective state of mind today, and I started thinking about my all-time favorite food and drink in Prague. And the thoughts put me in a good mood.
So I thought I'd share.
I wasn't thinking about specific restaurants or bars. Often, it is one specific dish or drink that makes me feel good and makes me return, whether everything else is good or not.
Here are my top ten favorites with just a little bit something extra. This list goes to eleven:
1. Risotto alla pescatora at Kogo at Slovansky Dum.
As someone who craves variety, I am always surprised how much I love this dish and how often I order it. The seafood is always fresh and plentiful. Shellfish galore. There is tomato, wine, and plenty of garlic. I love the leafy parsley thrown in the mix. I always think I'll make myself order something different at this restaurant, but I rarely do.
2. Entrecote at Cafe Savoy.*
The cut of beef is usually good, but not that special. It is not so large. But the demi-glace that comes with it is a rich, smile-inducing treat. The fried string onions on top soak up more of the sauce only add to the feeling of decadence. And I order a side of fries to go with it to clean up any sauce that remains. None ever does.
* Update -- I'm sorry to say that this version of this dish is no longer on the menu. They still do an entrecote, but it is done with herb butter and grilled vegetables. It is nice, but without the demi-glace, it doesn't do it for me anymore.
3. Nasi goreng at Zahrada v opeře (Garden in the Opera).
The Indonesian rice, seafood, and chicken combine into a wonderful melange of flavors. But it is dominated by finely chopped Kaffir lime leaf. This is among my favorite seasonings in the world. It comes with lime wedges for squeezing, so it has a pleasant tartness, and there are chopped, relatively mild red chilies for a little kick. It is up to you how much you want to mix in.
4. Hot chocolate at Cafe Louvre.
The inspiration for this post. The drink is thick, rich, and almost pudding-like. It comes in relatively small cups that always leaving me wanting more. So today, I ordered two at once to go with my club sandwich. I enjoyed the second cup even more than the first.
5. Steak sandwich at Rocky O'Reilly's.
It ain't cheap these days, and I don't want to go when a big game is on TV, but this sandwich is close to perfect for me. They use very good quality steak. It comes on a long, crunchy-toasted, buttered roll. There are fried onions and mushrooms. And no cheese. Some may miss this, but I don't. I sometimes throw a little sweet Soja sauce or ketchup on top.
6. Carolina wings and ribs at Ambiente on Manesova.
These wings are delicious on their own, with crispy-sweet skin. But then you add the fantastic mango chili sauce that comes with them and they go to a whole new level for me. It's sweet and spicy and I love it. I could drink that sauce straight. The ribs have never been dry and the meat is easy to pull from the bone so you can dip it in the sauce. The best ribs in Prague, I'd say. There is an all-you-can-eat option, but I've never gone that far.
7. Bacon cheeseburger at Potrefena Husa on Vinohradska.
Maybe the best burger in Prague. It has a great, smoky-grilled flavor, good bun, and very well constructed. The only failure is that the high-quality beef they use isn't fatty enough and it can be dry, especially because they tend to overcook them. Not cheap, but the place I go when I need some comfort food.
8. Chocolate gelato cone at Cremeria Milano.
An intense chocolate experience. Better than all but a few fancy restaurant desserts I've had in my life. Made with Cream & Dream gelato, which can be found at a number of other places around Prague. I associate it with Cremeria Milano because that's the first place I tried it.
9. Mojito at La Bodeguita del Medio.
This "European" mojito comes in a big glass filled with crushed ice. Sure, this drink has become a cliche and the most-ordered concoction (a bartender told me), but there is a reason. Many bars are often in a hurry to make this work-intensive drink, and La Bodeguita is no exception. But more often than not, they get they combination of lime juice, mint, rum, brown sugar, and soda water just right. I used to sit at the bar and have one while snacking on a goat cheese and spinach salad, but I must admit it's been too crowded for me lately.
10. Complimentary green salad at Hanil.
The sushi is OK, nothing too special, but reasonably priced for Prague. But one of the things I most look forward to at this Japanese/Korean restaurant is the very simple green salad they serve all diners at the start of a meal. It has a soy vinegar dressing that, yes, I did once drink from the bowl when the lettuce was all gone. I love it that much. The waiter told me the secret ingredient, but if you want to know, you have to ask yourself.
11. Brownie at Passion Chocolat.
Actually a soft cookie made with high-quality chocolate, nuts, and candied orange. I eat a few of these every week. Yes, there are three entries on this list that involve chocolate, one of the great loves of my life.
But these are just my tastes. And on a different day, I might make a different list. In fact, I'm sure I would.
So how about you? Crisp apple streudels? Schnitzel with noodles? What are a few of your favorites things?
