Sunday, November 15, 2009

Velvet Revolution 20th Anniversary Concert

“I really do inhabit a system in which words are capable of shaking the entire structure of government, where words can prove mightier than ten military divisions.” Vaclav Havel
Sometimes I get lucky. Last night was one of those nights.

I attended the very special concert and celebration to mark the 20th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution.It was held before a few hundred people in the intimate setting of Pražská křižovatka -- Prague Crossroads at the Church of St. Anne.

Former Czech President Vaclav Havel, the playwright who helped inspire and lead the revolution, was the guest of honor.The performers were Joan Baez, Suzanne Vega, Lou Reed, and Renee Fleming.Highlights included Reed's performance of "Dirty Boulevard," Vega singing "Tom's Diner" backed by the orchestra, Fleming's "Ave Maria" and Baez's rendition of "We Shall Overcome," which the audience joined in singing.

We were on a high as we walked out of the concert hall on such a beautiful fall evening. A drink was in order and nowhere could be more appropriate than Divadlo na zábradlí -- Theater on the Balustrade -- where Havel got his start as a playwright.

It was just around the corner. I had a feeling that the concert's after-party could be there because there was a chalkboard by the door with a sign that said: "♥ 9p-1a" A heart is Havel's symbol -- he always draws one after his signature.

Then I thought I must be wrong. The theater's bar was relatively empty, and we got seats at a table right in the middle. But then, it turned out, I was right. Just a few minutes later, a parade of celebrities began arriving.

There was former U.S. Secretary of State Madeleine Albright with former Czech Foreign Minister Karel Schwarzenberg, who pulled up a chair across from us.He then got a kiss from Joan Baez.Lou Reed got a lot of attention when he walked in with a couple of security guys.Renee Fleming and Suzanne Vega were also there, but I was having such a good time, I didn't take photos. Or perhaps I'd had too many vodkas at that point.

There were also some big Czech names at the party, such as the artist, David Cerny.The actor Pavel Liška was holding court at another table.There was a VIP room off to the side of the bar, but everyone was moving in and out, including us. It was all very relaxed and casual.And, of course, the guest of honor was there.As with so many other things, it wouldn't have been the same without him.

The concert was shown on Czech television, but I made my own video of the concert highlights and after-party.
All photos copyright of Czech Please ©

Read the full post

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Café Imperial

"If the Czar only knew..." Old Russian saying
People often ask me for restaurant tips. Give me a price range, location, and maybe a cuisine preference, and I'll give you a menu of options.

Last week, I needed to give myself some restaurant advice. I wanted to take out a couple of high school friends, Adam and Steph, who came over to surprise me for my birthday. For the event, V threw me a surprise party at Osteria da Clara. Everyone loved it.

But a few days later, I was lacking dining ideas. My two friends are New Yorkers who didn't want to spend a fortune, but I wanted to impress them. For some reason, I couldn't get the perfect choice to pop into my head.

In the end, I chose Café Imperial, which is part of a hotel in the center of Prague.I settled on this place for its interesting ceramic tiled interior and its not excessively priced menu.I'd never been terribly impressed by the food, but I hoped for the best.

The very pleasant host, I believe it was the manager, sat us in the center of the dining room.The bread in the basket that came soon after was cold and just average. But we all loved the spread that came with it.Our host proudly told us it was made from a special recipe that included smoked ham, cheese, mustard, horseradish, pickle, onion, and egg. Quite a combo. But be aware, there was a 20 CZK per head cover charge.

Adam and I felt like a beer and he wanted something different, so we each had a Master 18°, a strong, dark beer from Pilsner Urquell (.4 liter/60 CZK).It has a hint of coffee flavor at the finish and a very nice head. We both enjoyed it.

Steph had a .15 liter glass of a New Zealand Sauvignon blanc, but I don't recall the label.She had no complaints about the drinkability, but the 190 CZK price tag left me with some sour grapes.

We ordered a large bottle of water to go with the meal. The waiter brought a one liter plastic bottle of Vittel (145 CZK). Plastic? I'd never seen that before in presumably upscale dining establishment. Adam also joked that one of the only times he'd been given cloth napkins with a meal in Prague was during brunch at our place.

For a starter, Adam had the smoked trout (185 CZK). We both liked the salty fish, though it was nothing exceptional.He enjoyed the potato salad with quail egg underneath more than I did. I thought it was way too sweet.

Steph got the goat cheese salad (195 CZK). I had a bite and really enjoyed the vinaigrette and honey dressing.It was also sweet, but balanced with vinegar tartness. The quality greens were dressed with just right.

The goat cheese was well-toasted on small circles of bread. But it was not so large, and wouldn't look too cheap for New Yorkers thinking in dollars.

I had the French onion soup gratinée (85 CZK). This was the closest soup I've had to the French onion soup of my restaurant youth -- something not so usual in Prague.I liked it, but wished it was better. The whole thing could have used a flavor boost. The melted cheese over toast had the perfect consistency, but was bland.

I thought the browned onion broth could have used a shot of wine or dry sherry. It was too one-dimensional.

For a main course, Adam got the classic Czech dish he'd wanted since his last Prague visit -- hovězí svíčková na smetaně (189 CZK).Unfortunately, it was far from the best version I've sampled.

The braised beef was on the tough side and, despite being under liquid, seemed dried out. But I really judge this dish by its veggie-based cream sauce. On this score, I found it thin and boring, with a hint of sweetness but not much else. The dumplings were nice, and it came with quality cranberry sauce. I was disappointed it wasn't better.

They were offering a few game dishes. Steph couldn't decide between the wild boar and the Zajíc Royale -- the hare. Our host recommended that hare, saying that was his personal favorite. So, hare it was (369 CZK).It came with egg noodles. She wasn't happy with it. Steph said it was dry and the meat was stringy.

I went for the deer (355 CZK). The meat was tender, but bland. It desperately needed salt. Also, it didn't have a lot of gaminess -- it could have easily been mistaken for a small, lean beef tenderloin.I was told it was served medium rare, which was fine. Two of the thicker pieces had red/pink centers. But the thinnest piece was cooked all the way through, which was a shame. The mushrooms and sauce underneath had potential, but also needed more seasoning.

There was no side item included in the price, so I ordered scalloped potatoes at an extra cost of 53 CZK.They were way too garlicky for my taste, and the top crust was dried out. It seemed like they'd been sitting under a heat lamp or in a stove for too long. Overall, I didn't think this main course was worth over 400 CZK.

Our total tab for the three of us came to 2205 CZK. I quickly noticed that a 200 CZK or 10 percent service charge was included in that price.That's how much we would have tipped anyway, but I don't like service charges being decided for me in advance. It's understandable for large parties, but not as a rule for all diners. Very annoying.

If the service was poor (which it wasn't), I'd have to go through the awkward situation of paying less than what is printed on the receipt. I think that is presumptuous and rude.

My feeling about Café Imperial is that it is a cool looking place with generally good service and good presentation. The food looks nice on the pretty plates.

They have some bargains, but if you're not careful, the costs can add up quickly. That may be because of an unexpectedly expensive glass of wine, or side orders that aren't included in some pricier offerings.

Most critically, I've been to this restaurant three or four times over the years and while far from all bad, I've eaten too many dishes that just didn't taste very good.

If the chef only knew...

Café Imperial
Na Poříčí 15
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 246 011 440

Read the full post

Sunday, November 8, 2009

La Adelitas Restaurant

"This is like deja vu all over again." Yogi Berra
Three months ago, I wrote about the Mexican food delivery service, Las Adelitas. It was a mixed bag, and normally, I wouldn't revisit something so quickly.

But right after I did that post, I found out they were going from delivery only to opening an actual restaurant in Vinohrady.My curiosity meter jumped. I went three different times to check it out. It was a tiny place, just seven or eight tables. There were also a few spots by the bar.I was sorry to discover they served Stella Artois (.5 liter/35 CZK) and Staropramen (.5 liter/28 CZK). Not my favorite beers, but I had a Staro.It was nicely cold and crisp

They had a few varieties of margaritas. First, I tried the classic (89 CZK) without salt.It was tiny, but I really liked it. The drink was both very tart, sweet, and packed a little punch.

Unfortunately, it was gone all too fast. I know tequila isn't cheap, but the price seemed high for how small it was.

I also tried the mango margarita (99 CZK).There was sweet mango nectar and tequila in a glass rimmed with sugar instead of salt. There was also more liquid in the glass than with the classic. It was good, but you really have to like sugary drinks.

V tried a glass of red wine (29 CZK).She said it was fine, nothing special, but she couldn't believe the price. A real bargain. She even told the waiter they should charge more.

On my first visit, I looked at the menu and saw that there really aren't any offerings that could be called appetizers or starters. The only thing that comes close is the Sopa Azteca (49 CZK).The salty-sour broth contained shredded chicken tortillas, white cheese (Balkan style, the only thing close to a Mexican cheese), and dried red chilis that were quite chewy. Yes, it was spicy, but not overly so, even when I chomped on those peppers. The chicken was fresh and tender. I'd get it again.

Then, I ordered my favorite dish at Prague's other real Mexican spot, Fosil. That would be the Tacos Al Pastor (169 CZK).You get three soft corn tortillas filled with chunks of pork marinated in Pastor chili sauce. I admit I was dubious about the combination of fresh pineapple, onion, and cilantro before I had it the first time. But it is quite delicious.

My regrets with this version were that the meat was tough, it was barely warm, and they don't have the great hot sauces on the side that Fosil has.

Pineapple juice is supposed to break down the protein and make the pork tender, but it didn't happen here. Still, I'd say it was my favorite of all the dishes I tried.

On my next visit, I had the Burrito de Cochinita with pork (145 CZK).The meat was marinated with achiote, which is usually a paste of annato, coriander and cumin seeds, with black pepper and oregano.

The pork was succulent and tender, with lots of flavor. I enjoyed the black beans inside. What I didn't love so much was the leaves of iceburg lettuce wrapped up in there.I asked the waiter if that was how they did it in Mexico. He said no -- that it was usually served outside the burrito, but they put it inside to cater to local tastes. Too bad. It would be better without.

On the side was a green chili sauce, red rice, and black beans. The burrito also had lovely vinegared red onions on top.

On my last visit with V, I ordered the Enchiladas (169 CZK). They offer a green sauce and a red sauce, but I got the mole.This one was sweeter than some I've had. It was thick, spicy, and yes, just a little bit like a chocolate sauce. It was less weird than you think, but I like sweet and savory dinner dishes more than most people.

On the other hand, the chicken inside the rolled corn tortillas was too bland and a little dry.

V tried the Quesadillas Adelitas (169 CZK). There were three varieties -- pork, chicken or vegetarian, but you can get one of each, which is what she did.These were not quesadillas like any I had had before. First, two didn't have cheese as far as I could tell. Second, they were like fried corn meal turnovers, rather than the pan-fried tortillas I'm used to. They were topped with onions and Balkan-style cheese.

Again, the pork was the best, with the most flavor.Again, the chicken was dry and bland.And the vegetarian was filled with just mashed potato and cheese.It really was not tasty or interesting at all. Just greasy and heavy. Being from New York, it reminded me of a knish, if that means anything to you.

The service was always quick and very friendly. The waiter and manager always walked around the small place, asking people how they liked their food, getting feedback and having short conversations. Lots of smiles.That's very different from the service at Fosil. I like the Fosil's food, but the glacial pace and forgetfulness of the service often dissuade me from making a visit.

Las Adelitas Restaurant had many of the same dishes as their delivery service, with a few nice additions.

The dining area was too bright for my taste. They played good Mexican music, but ambiance was somewhat lacking. I've heard they are going to work on that.

I'd go back again, and I'd order anything, as long as it was anything made with pork.

And if you read my earlier Las Adelitas review, it's like deja vu all over again.

Las Adelitas Restaurant
Americká 8
Prague 2
Tel: (+420) 776 805 317

Read the full post