Brabander: The Art of Culinary - Brno

"A diplomat is a man who always remembers a woman's birthday but never remembers her age."
-Robert Frost

V's mother, who lives in Brno, had a birthday. We decided to take her out for a nice Sunday lunch.

Our first thought was to go to Brabander: Living Restaurant. It is one of our favorites in the Czech Republic's second city. I wrote a post about that place a few months back.

However, we'd taken her there before and decided to try something different. But not too different. And we wanted to be sure it would be good.

So, we went to Brabander: The Art of Culinary. This second, oddly named Brabander, has a similar cuisine to the first, and yet nothing on the menu is the same.

I should note that the Internet menu was not up to date when I wrote this.

We entered the bar area off the street. No one was there to greet us, so we walked up the stairs. We passed a deck that would be great for outdoor dining in the warm weather.

Sun was shining into the main dining room, giving it a much different feeling than subterranean sister restaurant.The meal started with an amuse bouche. It was light, creamy duck liver pate on a nut wafer.For a starter, Maminka had beef carpaccio (165 CZK). It was a decent, basic version.It came with rucola leaves, shaved Parmesan, olive oil, and lemon and lime wedges.

L had the goat cheese pyramid (165 CZK). The name pretty much says it all.It was light and creamy, but fairly ordinary. On the side were a few mache leaves and red peppercorns.

V had the scallops (219 CZK). There were two, sitting in a shell with melted butter. They were large and perfectly seared.V didn't want all the butter, so I soaked it up with bread. The butter had a great scallop flavor.

An interesting note here: The menu originally said there was one scallop. The "one" was crossed out, and "two" was written in its place. They had a similar dish at the other Brabander, but it was only one scallop and went for 145 CZK.

I had a grilled goat cheese salad. The waiter thoughtfully asked if I wanted a smaller, starter portion (97 CZK). The goat cheese, with a crsip, browned surface, was warm and light.It sat on spinach leaves, which didn't have the snappy freshness I was hoping for. There was a dressing made with very sour cherries. I thought it was a nice contrast, but V thought it was a bit too sour.

The service was super solicitous and ostentatiously polite. Some people like that. Some people don't. I prefer slightly more ordinary human interaction, but I didn't mind so much. V prefers service with a little less, shall we say, personality.

For the main courses, Maminka had the best dish of the lunch: lamb tenderloin (380 CZK). It came with a plum sauce, roasted potatoes, and shaved Parmesan.It was the best lamb I've had since a memorable meal in 1994. The four large pieces meat were cooked perfectly rare, and they were almost impossibly tender.

The potatoes went well with them. The sweet plum sauce was one-dimensional, though, with a strong prune flavor. They could have done better with that.

V had a seared tuna salad (180 CZK). The tuna was cooked correctly (something we often have trouble with in the Czech Republic).The salad, with a variety of lettuce leaves, had a basic dressing and there wasn't much seasoning on the tuna.

V really enjoyed it, and I thought it was pretty good. But I liked all the other main courses better.

L had the pork tenderloin (239 CZK). It was cooked close to medium (I don't mind pink pork), and was also incredibly tender.The meat was larded with chunks of smokey pork fat and pancetta (I think), which added to the flavor.

The dish came with a wonderful mushroom cream sauce, a little tower of couscous (which I didn't taste), and some roasted baby tomatoes.

I had the butterfish (249 CZK). The square cut of fresh fish was cooked with a beautiful, golden crust and yet remained moist and flaky throughout.It came with a lime, coconut cream sauce that was a great complement. On the side, there was nori-wrapped sticky rice. I cleaned the plate.

We all ordered dessert.

V ordered the strawberry "caprese" with mint, vanilla mozzarella, and vanilla balsamic syrup (119 CZK). It was... interesting.The strawberries and syrup were nice. The sweetened cheese did have a good vanilla flavor, but the gelatin-like texture was a little too odd for me.

L got the cheese cake (125 CZK). It was moist and creamy -- a fine housemade version.On top was a lime gelatin. Many Czech cakes are made with gelatin on top, and many people enjoy it. I really don't like it, myself.

The birthday girl had the crêpe Suzette (129 CZK). It was a tasty but small folded crêpe, with plenty of Grand Marnier.It was prepared in the kitchen, so we did not witness it being flambéed. She liked it very much, but I do wish it was a little more substantial.

I had the nougat and chocolate dessert (149 CZK). The nougat had a sticky, almost curd-like texture, and it was intensely sweet.The English-language menu said it came covered in chocolate. But it didn't say that it was a sweet and crunchy shell, flavored with white chocolate. Not bad, but there was no love.

We had a variety of drinks. It should be noted that wine by the glass prices are listed on the menu, but in the amount of .1 liter, whereas the waiter pours .2 liter glasses. So double the prices you see listed.

Overall, it was an enjoyable meal. I'd certainly recommend this restaurant.

I just want to say something here about the quality and the prices.

Many of the dishes at this restaurant are as good or better than I might find at fine dining establishments in Prague. And I'd say the prices are easily half what they'd cost in Prague -- even the lamb.

The bill for the four of us was reasonable, considering all we ate and drank.

But because the meal was part of birthday gift, I don't want to publish the total amount I paid.

That would be undiplomatic.

Brabander: The Art of Cullinary
Pekařská 4
Brno, Czech Republic
Tel. (+420) 543 215 250


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Half & Half Update

"An optimist will tell you the glass is half-full. A pessimist will tell you it is half-empty. An engineer will tell you the glass is twice the size it needs to be."

My struggle last year to find decent fast food around Wenceslas Square is neverending.

Last year, I wrote about Half & Half a few times. It's time for an update because it changed its offerings significantly and for the better since it first opened.Now, the focus is on Italian and Greek cuisine, along with their previous dessert offerings. And they do a decent job, at least compared with everything else out there.

The first change that caught my attention was the pizzas under heat lamps in the front window. They usuall have a wide variety of pies prepared, with many interesting toppings like fried zucchini and eggplant, peppers, pepperoni, rucola, and more.On one visit, I ordered a slice with mushroom. Most are around 45 CZK.

The slices were not nearly as large as those from Pizza Grosso, behind the National Museum, which go for 30 CZK. The sauce isn't as nicely seasoned. But Half & Half's was still not bad.It usually has a good, crunchy crust, unless it has been under a lamp for too long.On another visit, I tried the Hawaiian pizza. I once read a real Neapolitan restaurateur said a Hawaiian isn't a pizza, it's a cake. Let them eat cake, I say.I also went for some white pizza. I wished it had more garlic and ricotta. But it was a nice change from the usual pizzas and not one you'll see at too many other places around town.One day, I decided to try something new after I saw these fried balls behind the counter.

It was pretty unusual.

Basically, it tasted like breaded and fried rice pudding, with a square of mozarrella in the center.

It needs to be heated at the shop or in the microwave at work. It's not good cold.

It cost 25 CZK. There were a few varieties available -- I also saw one with tomato and mozarrella inside.

They are cheap and filling, but they sit pretty heavily on the stomach.

In a display case, there were other offerings like chicken legs, stuffed peppers, lasagne, and moussaka.I got the moussaka (89 CZK) one afternoon. It had a light, creamy cheese on top. It was very heavy on the potatoes, which were cut into long, thick slices. The meat was on the bland side.My all-time favorite lunch at Half & Half is the chicken gyros pita (59 CZK). It is one of the best sandwich-type meals you'll find in the area.They use real Greek pita bread, brush it with oil, and heat it in the pizza oven. When it comes out, Greek yogurt is spread on the pita. It tastes better than it looks.A very generous portion of chicken is freshly carved off from the rotisserie. There is so much meat, it is pretty messy to eat.

I spread it out on a plate, if I can. They chicken is very well-seasoned and also moist, with some crisp pieces. It has never been dry or overcooked.I always get it with raw red onions and tomatoes. And I tell them to leave off the only other option: cold sour cabbage. No thank you.

Half & Half is actually two shops next two each other. You have to walk outside to go into the half that serves desserts. There is good quality gelato in the window.They also sell a variety of fancy cakes, cookies, and Greek honey desserts like baklava.I tried the chocolate cake (75 CZK). It was very fudgey but I didn't fall in love with it.They also often have my favorite Greek dessert, which goes by the unwieldy name galaktoboureko (69 CZK). It is custard, baked in phyllo, coated with honey.A nice version (although more expensive than the gyros pita!).

On a visit last year, I became a fan of their chocolate milkshakes, which are made with top quality gelato. They charged 65 CZK for a .4 liter shake.The shake was good, with a very strong chocolate flavor. T.G.I. Friday's shake is better only because they use more ice cream. Half & Half's uses more milk.

For some perspective, they charged 45 CZK for a single serving cone of gelato, but you get less gelato than in the milkshake. I think they have a .3 liter shake for 55 CZK.

Service is not always great and can break down if a crowd comes in. Some of the women who work there don't speak great English, which is not great in a tourist zone. Sometimes their Czech is a little challenged, too.

I do wish Prague had more quality quick lunch choices like Britain's Pret a Manger sandwich and salad chain. There is still nothing as good as that.

But things are getting better.

I feel optimistic when I think that, years ago, there were half as many places to get a decent, fast lunch around Wenceslas Square.

I feel pessimistic when I think there are half as many as there need to be.

For now, Half & Half will have to do.

Half & Half
Wenceslas Square 51
Prague 1
Tel. 222 240 696


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The Burgers of Prague

"Nothing is a waste of time if you use the experience wisely."
-Auguste Rodin

Where can you experience the best hamburger in Prague? A juicy question. But perhaps a waste of time.

The question, I mean.

Who can seriously answer that? A lot of good burgers are served up in this town. But who has tried them all?

The Prague Post has had an article the past couple of years on Prague's best burgers. I had sampled the offerings at a few of the places mentioned. But so many good burgers were not included in that competition.

So, I have my own list.

What follows are not necessarily the best burgers of Prague. I will not even say the list is objective.

It is, in fact, only a list of all the hamburgers I've eaten over the last year. I've put them in the order that I like them:

Czech Inn Hostel: Call me crazy. Call me unconventional. I put this one at the top. This home-style hamburger is the one your mother would make (if she made really good hamburgers).

It was not flashy. It was not gourmet. It was just right and hit the spot. The patty is large, a little crumbly, like Mom's, with just the right amount of fat and salt. The bun is big, dusted with flour, and doesn't fall apart.

It came with lettuce, tomatoes, and a square of melted American-style cheese. There was no bacon. A fried egg on top was an option. It came with a hefty amount of fries and mayonnaise on side for 150 CZK.

My only quibbles? The Heinz ketchup was served in large packets instead of a bottle. And on one visit, the fries were not cooked in the freshest oil.

The Czech Inn is an upscale hostel, a few tram stops outside the center. Its pub has a very nice look, with great, artistic plaster work on the walls and ceilings.

There is also an English-language trivia/quiz night every Monday at 8pm. Big fun.

Potrafena Husa on Vinohradska: This hamburger was close to perfect. The high-quality meat had a great smoky flavor from the grill.

It had bacon, cheese, lettuce, tomato, and onion. All the toppings are thoughtfully cut to fit under the bun. You rarely see this kind of attention to detail.

The bun was very good bread and toasted. The fries were great.

I had only small issues with this burger. One was that the ground beef was actually too lean. It was on the dry side after cooking.

Because of this, I order it rare, but it always comes at least medium.

Then, there's the price. It is now 312 CZK, up from 290 CZK when I last wrote about. Ouch!

The cost does take some of the pleasure out of it for me.

This place, which serves Czech and American-style dishes, is often full of Czech urban professionals and expats. It appears they are willing to pay any price.

Fraktal: This burger is a favorite of many, and it has been one of mine. The burger patty itself was thick, round, and nicely charred on the outside.

The ground beef sat on a sturdy, poppy and sesame seed roll. There was generous amounts of bacon and cheese.

The burger came with lettuce, red onion, sliced sweet pickles, a mayo-based sauce, and a side of fries and mustard. I also got a bottle of Heinz ketchup.

I had the small, 125 gram version for 175 CZK. The larger 200 gram version was 195 CZK.

Small criticisms here: the tomatoes were sliced wedges -- not exactly the best shape if you want to throw them on the burger. The fries were large and good, but needed salt.

The dark, subterranean space is not my favorite place for a meal. The floor often smells of beer and it can fill with cigarette smoke.

I do like to sit at one of the few tables outside in the summer, if one is available.

El Barrio de Ángel: I'd give this burger the award for the best ground beef. It traveled all the way from Argentina. There was a wonderful flavor, made even more delicious by flame grilling.

The patty was well-seasoned, with a perfect amount of salt. The low fat content makes it very dense and even a bit dry in the middle, like Potrefena Husa's.

Still, juices dripped on the plate -- the chef brushes the burger a lot on the grill.

It came out with lettuce, tomato, onion, and mayo already on it. It was well-constructed.

My Argentine friend, Max, the Beer Philosopher, told me that this is the standard way burgers are served in his country. I'm not a big mayo-on-the-burger fan so I wished I'd had some choice in the matter.

Fries came on a separate plate. The cost is 149 CZK, which seems fair, considering the quality.

The biggest problem was the bun. Although nicely toasted, it was a flaky little thing that was dwarfed by the big, thick patty.


It appeared to come from a supermarket. It fell apart. This fine beef deserved better.

Ultramarin: I'm glad I went back to try this burger again recently.

It also had bad bun issues only a few months ago. But it has gotten an upgrade and moved higher on my list.

They call it the "Elvis King burger." It came with Irish bacon, sweet onion jam, fried onion, and a grilled mushroom cap. I really liked the onions.

The burger was served with housemade french fries with the skins on. They were very greasy and cooked to an orange-brown color. I liked them, despite the large amount of excess oil.

Mayo came on the side, and bottled Heinz ketchup was also available.

It costs 220 CZK. That's up from 175 CZK when I had it with the bad bun in November 2007.

Cafe Bar Wigwam: This is the hamburger I eat most often. I am a regular at this place.

The "Classic Burger" is usually nothing too special. It has a bad, supermarket bun. They use decent beef, usually cooked to well-done.

There's lettuce, tomato, good bacon, red onions, melted cheese, and tons of mayo on top.

What do I like about this one? It is 115 CZK with fries included. The best bargain of the bunch.

There is also a strangely endearing aspect to this hamburger, at least for me. It seems it is never made the same way twice, week after week.

The shape and size of the patty is always changing. Sometimes it is a wide and flat. Sometimes it is a small lump. The toppings vary from time to time.

It's never great, and only rarely bad. These weekly changes keep me from getting bored with it.

Mozaika: I know this burger is much loved, and this is one of my favorite restaurants.

Still, I really haven't loved the Mozaika burger. It was the least conventional, but I didn't downgrade it for that reason.

It came on a big, spinach bread bun, with baked mushrooms, sweet onions, mayo, tomatoes, and lettuce.

The beef patty was quite large. It is heavily seasoned and very good. However, the toppings just didn't work for me.

Both times, I've had it, they mixed together into something of a mess inside the bun. They fell out of the bottom after a few bites.

It was very messy and hard to eat with your hands. The bread itself didn't hold together so well, either.

It came with fries or a small salad and goes for 199 CZK.

Hergetova Cihelna: This was the most expensive hamburger I've eaten in Prague.

In summer, you might consider that you are paying for the view of the Charles Bridge from the terrace. In the winter, you're just paying for the burger.

The beef patty was big and char-grilled. On the side were pickles, onions, tomatoes, coleslaw, ketchup, and mayo. The sesame seed bun was big, and perfectly toasted. The bacon was great. The fries were thick and crunchy.

But.

The tomatoes were cut into awkward-sized chunks rather than slices. The slaw had way too much mayo. The meat was very fatty, and had an odd, rubbery quality.

It tasted good, but the texture bothered me.

And I was really bothered by the price: 395 CZK. Wow! I won't be doing that again.

T.G.I.Friday's: If you want a real American-style hamburger, what better place than an American restaurant chain? Well, to be honest, there are better places.

I had the WORLD FAMOUS FRIDAY'S® BURGER. I went for the smaller 150 gram version for 160 CZK. The larger 250 gram burger is 210 CZK. Neither come with any side item like french fries.

The large, thin patty had a nice, but familiar flame-broiled flavor. It came on a large, sesame seed bun, pre-loaded with great, thick bacon, American cheese, lettuce, pickles, tomato, and onion.

After a few bites, I realized why the flavor was familiar. It tasted almost exactly like Burger King's Whopper. I do like Whoppers, But if I want one, I'd rather go to BK and pay less (there's a rumor they are coming to Prague).


The only difference between the two in my mind was that the WFFB had better bacon and didn't come with mayo like BK's.

The faults of the Friday's burger? Too much melted cheese that overwhelmed at times. Also a bun that was big enough, but was too soft and barely held together.

I had it with onion rings for 35 CZK, which were almost completely flavorless. I loved their chocolate milkshake, but it was 85 CZK.

One other thing worth mentioning. I would never go to the T.G.I. Friday's on Na Příkopě, only to the one at Anděl. The prices are drastically different.


At Na Příkopě, there was only burger size on the menu (they didn't give the weight), and it went for 290 CZK. The ribs are 380 CZK there, but only 240 CZK at Anděl (though 50 grams less).

U Dědka: There was nothing very wrong with the hamburger at U Dedka. It was just my least favorite.

The meat was a big, round lump with melted cheese and bacon on top.

The burger came with toppings on the side: sliced, white onions, pickles, jalapenos, lettuce, annoying tomato wedges, liquidy coleslaw, mayo, and ketchup.

The ground beef ball was too rare for me.

Also, the meat had a very distinctive and different taste. I really couldn't make out what kind of seasoning was the source of this flavor (or if it was definitely from a seasoning). I didn't like it. Also, the bun was not toasted.

It was 140 CZK, but unlike many of the others, it did not come with fries.

And those are all I've tried. And not a single McBurger in the past year (though I did have a fine Angry Whopper in Munich).

Since some of these hamburgers were eaten many months ago, I must mention this caveat: There may have been changes since my visit.

If you know of some good burgers or would rank them differently, I'd love to see your Burgers of Prague list.

And some day, I'd like to take a look at the Burghers of Calais.

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La Fabrika - Prague Burlesque

"The difference between burlesque and the newspapers is that the former never pretended to be performing a public service by exposure."
-I.F. Stone

G-Man called me up. He asked if I wanted to go with his wife and another couple see a new burlesque show. I said yes.

I'd read about this the Prague Burlesque performance in The Prague Post.

The article, "Bring on the Dancing Girls," talked about performer and producer David Jahn's efforts to bring burlesque back to Prague for the first time since 1910.

Jahn's goals? Fun and profit. This was one of the first shows, but the article said they want to make it a monthly event.

The show took place at La Fabrika. It's an art gallery and performance venue in the Holešovice neighborhood of Prague 7. It has a modern style that reminded me of places I'd been to in Los Angeles and Atlanta.

La Fabrika is not so close to Prague's tourist center, but you can get there by trams 1, 3, 5, 12, 15, and 25. The stops are Dělnická or Maniny.

There are other theatrical performances there, but I think they are mostly in Czech.
After walking through the big steel doors, we checked our coats. It was 200 CZK for advance tickets and 250 CZK at the door.

Inside, there's a big, warehouse-style interior with a bar on one side, against a brick wall.On this night, the bar was filled with Prague's Czexpat crowd. There was a fairly big turnout for the show.

The poster for the event called for a 1920s and 1930s dress code. A few did show up in an approximation, with hats tilted to one side or fishnet stockings. One woman wore some balloons.The mostly young crowd lined the walls, along with a variety of art exhibits.I don't know about food, but there was drink. They served Pilsner Urquell and Gambrinus. A beer cost around 35 CZK, though I can't remember for which brand.I needed something with caffeine, so I ordered a Cuba Libre. It was not cheap at 89 CZK, but I seriously needed an energy boost, and I can't stand Red Bull.

G-Man kept buying more rum and Cokes for me because he owed me money, and I kept forgetting to tell him to stop.

It was obvious the bar was running out of ice. The second drink had very little. The third one had none and came in a much smaller glass.In a big open space next to the bar area is a performance area. There were only a few tables in there. We got in early and were lucky to get one. For the rest, it was standing room only.The Merriam-Webster online dictionary defines burlesque as "theatrical entertainment of a broadly humorous often earthy character consisting of short turns, comic skits, and sometimes striptease acts."

I'm not a big expert on the subject, but I also read a little about the British burlesque scene in a Guardian article I came across, "Anything Goes."

This Prague show had a little bit of humor, provided by the campy host and one male dancer.

Some very attractive women portraying various characters danced and teased to an eclectic soundtrack that spanned a variety of styles and decades. They did take off some clothes, but there was no full nudity. Pasties was as crazy as it got.

Performers go by the names Demonica Coca, Monique La Fleur, Lina Von Sturm, Rebeca Del Rio, Crystal Desirée, Hrabě Koroptieff, Bruno Ferrari.

In the interest of public service, I do have some highlights from the event.And in the interest of a modicum of propriety, there's plenty I left out.

There's some skin exposure, but nothing you wouldn't see on the beach.

Still, given the nature of the dancing and style of dress, you might not want to watch this at work.

Or, depending on your nature, not at all.

But if you want to see more, go to the next show, whenever that will be.


La Fabrika
Komunardů 30
Praha 7


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Chez Marcel

"It was the best of times. It was the worst of times."
-Charles Dickens

This is a tale of two dinners. One was the best of dinners.

One was... I won't say the worst. But it was not good.

Both took place at Chez Marcel in Old Town.I had been several times before, but not for a few years. I remembered it as a decent French bistro, but nothing too special.

The very French looking interior was perhaps the most memorable aspect. They call it Prague's most authentic Parisian-style brasserie. The first, more recent dinner was a happy gathering of friends and a visitor from London. The Divine Miss C, The English Patient, and the VIP were all in a good mood. Carafes of house wine (235 CZK for a half-liter) helped in this respect.

TEP ordered the duck breast with mashed potatoes, drizzled with balsamic syrup (250 CZK). I thought it was the best duck I'd tasted in several years. I also thought the price was delicious.It was served rare. It was tender. The layer of fat and skin along the top had absorbed a wonderful smokiness. The balsamic added its tart sweetness.

TEP wasn't too hungry, so I ended up eating half of his dish. The mashed potatoes were just OK.

DMC and VIP both got what the menu called tuna sashimi (290 CZK). It was actually very lightly seared, with a black and white sesame crust. The fresh fish was served in six big chunks.I thought it was a generous amount of tuna for the price. As a main course, you might want to consider ordering an extra side dish.

There was a strong soy sauce in the middle of the plate for dipping. The plate also came with pieces of fresh pineapple.

I had steak tartare with frites (320 CZK). It was a good version. The chopped raw beef had a smooth texture, studded with chopped onions.It was well-seasoned by the kitchen, with just the right tang and a good balance of salt.No extra input required.

The frites were such a hit with my fellow diners that we got an extra order.

They were very hot, right out of the fryer, with a bit of salt. They all disappeared fast.

VIP and I decided we wanted dessert. He ordered the tiramisu (90 CZK).It was a cake-like version, the layers well-soaked in espresso. He's a veteran consumer of tiramisu, and he declared it very good. I agreed.

I ordered the fondant au chocolat (150 CZK). I find these hard to resist when I see them on a menu.This one disappointed me. One reason was that the outer shell of the cake itself had a rubbery texture. I'd never experienced one like that before.

The second reason was that the liquid chocolate interior didn't have a strong enough chocolate flavor. It was bland.

At the end of the meal, TEP and VIP were in such a good mood, they each declared that they would pay for the whole dinner tab. Neither would yield in their insistence.

VIP cleverly whispered to a waiter, and the bill for 2510 CZK was delivered to him.

Suddenly, a drama errupted. TEP demanded the bill. VIP refused. A foot chase around the restaurant ensued. I kid you not.

TEP threatened VIP with bodily harm. VIP laughed and dared him to try.

To make a long story short, when VIP was momentarily distracted, DMC stole the bill and handed it over to TEP.

VIP gave up the fight. And that was the end.

But I enjoyed the dinner so much, I decided I wanted to go back with V a few weeks later.

On this night, I avoided wine and drank Velkopopovický Kozel dark beer. I had one while I waited for V to meet me at the restaurant. When she arrived, she thought it was a good idea and ordered one, too.

We decided to share some appetizers and got the Assiette "Marcel" (210 CZK). This plate includes baked goat cheese, Parma ham, and red, yellow, and green marinated peppers.By themselves, the goat cheese with pesto and the ham were very salty. But when put on the fork with a piece of soft, sweet pepper, the flavors balanced out.

For a main course, V ordered one of the specials, the mussels. They came in a thick cream sauce. The mussels themselves were top quality, with firm but tender flesh. The sauce, however, was incredibly salty. The mussels were fine after the sauce had run off of them. But we tried dipping bread into the sauce, and it really was inedible.

I got the duck again, but it was not the same as my first visit. This time, it was cooked to at least medium, which gave it a drier texture and a less pleasant taste.The fowl still had the nice smokey flavor in the fat and skin, but was so much better rare.

For dessert, I ordered the profiteroles (130 CZK). V walked away for a while to make a call. She missed the arrival of the three pastry shells filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with chocolate sauce.It was not good. There was something seriously wrong with the chocolate sauce. It was very sour.

I didn't see the waiter or V for a while. I got bored, so I ended up pulling the tops of the profiteroles and eating the bottoms.

V finally came back. She tried the chocolate sauce and agreed there was a problem. The waiter came by, and we told him about it. He went to the kitchen and came back.

Something, indeed, was wrong. He said they usually use port wine in the sauce, but they had run out and tried using sherry instead. And they had used way too much.

He had tasted it in the kitchen and agreed it was bad. He offered us a different dessert, but we were full and didn't want more food.

When the bill came, it still had the profiteroles on it. It would have been nice if he had taken it off. But I had eaten about two-thirds of the dessert, so I didn't feel on solid ground to argue about it.

Looking back at these two meals, I'm amazed at how different they were. One was the most enjoyable I'd had in a while. Good atmosphere, good service, good prices, and almost all good food.

The other was a great disappointment.

Perhaps there was a revolution in the kitchen between visits. Whatever happened, I think some heads should roll.

Chez Marcel
Haštalská 12
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 222 315 676


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Café de Paris at Maltézské náměstí

"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."
-Ernest Hemingway

It was a sunny Sunday, and we felt like getting out and having a nice lunch. Café de Paris in Malá Strana was a place we'd been wanting to try for a long time.This restaurant should not be confused with another Café de Paris in the Hotel Paříž (Paris) at Obecni Dum.

This one is at Maltézské náměstí, just across the street from U malé velryby (Little Whale), where we had a party a few months ago.

Café de Paris is a very small place with just a few tables.The main menu is also small, with just a few options, plus an extra page of several special offerings.

I started with onion soup (39 CZK). It had a yellow broth, rather than the variation made with red wine. The soup had melted cheese in the middle and plenty of onions.There were no big surprises in this bowl, but it tasted good. The soup had a perfect balance of salt and didn't require any seasoning adjustments.

It was served with a few warm baguette slices. They were airy and light.

For a main course, I ordered the entrecôte with frites and a red wine sauce (259 CZK). It can also be ordered with the "secret recipe" Cafe de Paris sauce or a Bernaise sauce with taragon.The beef dish came with a small salad, which came out first. The red leaves were heavily dressed, with a strong, mustard-based dressing.The steak and frites were served on two platters that were placed on holders with candles underneath to keep them warm.The waiter had already taken some off of each and put the food on my plate before I took a picture.

The steak was very rare and very tender. I like it this way, but they did not ask how I wanted it cooked. They seem to know what I wanted at least as well as I did. More on that later.

The frites were excellent. They were thinly cut, obviously housemade, nicely crispy and salty, and cooked in fresh oil. They were served very hot.

After one bite, I realized that the entrecôte did not have red wine sauce. Whatever it was on top, it was very good. But I thought I should have a word with the waiter (who also appeared to be the manager).

"Excuse me. Can you tell me what sauce this is? I ordered the red wine sauce."

"That is the Café de Paris sauce. Do you like it?" He asked in return.

"Yes, it is very good."

"Then it's OK, then?"

"Yes, sure, I like it. I'll keep it. I just thought you should know I ordered something different."

"Ah, well, the chef really thinks the Café de Paris sauce is the best. I'm glad you like it. You can try the red wine sauce the next time."

An odd exchange. The comment about the chef had us shaking our heads in bemusement.

It wasn't that big a deal. I really liked what I got. But we both thought a small mea culpa comment would have been appropriate.

Later, I asked what was in the Café de Paris sauce. The waiter said it was a very old recipe made with 35 different ingredients, including a number of herbs. But he wouldn't even give us the smallest idea what was actually in it. That's a secret.

V ventured a guess that it had capers in it. He would only say no. We really couldn't figure out the flavors.

V ordered the Caesar salad with shrimp (179 CZK). It came with three very large, plump, butterflied shrimp.

V said they were, without question, the best shrimp she has had in Prague. This is high praise, indeed. We've eaten a boat load of crustaceans in this town over the years.They were cooked in a very nice olive oil. Perfect simplicity. And the price for such good quality was really fantastic.

They reminded me of the great grilled shrimp we had at the restaurant, Le Casabianca, on the very isolated Plage d'Arone in Corsica. That was one of my all-time favorite holidays. A nice memory to bring back.

There is a little sad news, though. The dressing was watery and bland. Several times, the very thin liquid spattered on V's sweater as she cut the Romaine lettuce and put it on her fork.

The salad did have a lot of shaved Parmesan, which really helped. We both thought more cheese in the dressing itself would have helped.

But the shrimp alone guaranteed that she would order it again.

V had two glasses of Bohemia sekt (55 CZK each). I had two bottles of Mattoni sparkling mineral water (39 CZK each).

Now, more about the service. They tried hard and smiled a lot, but it was pretty confused.

Silverware was taken away and not replaced. A plate was taken that was needed for the steak and then brought back after the main courses arrived.

There was a lot of running back and forth while we waited for what we needed in order to eat. There was also the entrecôte sauce mix-up.

There were a few other offerings on the main menu, including grilled vegetables and salad (249 CZK) and foie gras terrine (145 CZK).

On the special offer menu, they had rolled crepes with cheese and smoked salmon (179 CZK), grilled eggplant with potato and a tomato puree (139 CZK), and raclette, which came with electric table-top heaters for melting the cheese.

The prices were very reasonable for the center of Prague. The final bill was 665 CZK.

We didn't have dessert, but I was very tempted by the chocolate soufflé with hot cherry coulis (95 CZK). V was intrigued by the thought of a chestnut crème brûlée with a shot of strawberry consommé.

We had to say no. We were full, almost immovable, if you will.

The waiter suggested we try the desserts on our next visit. Despite some odd moments and dishes with room for improvement during this feast, I do believe there will be a next visit.

Café de Paris
Maltézské náměstí 4
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 603 160 718


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Makakiko Asia & Sushi Restaurant

"Moderation is a fatal thing. Nothing succeeds like excess."
-Oscar Wilde

I went to the Palladium mall right after it opened and wrote a post about all the food offerings.

The prices are pretty high, and I didn't think I'd be spending a lot of time and money there.

But I did try Makakiko Asia & Sushi Restaurant a few times. It is one of the more eye-catching dining areas in the mall, with a lot of electric green and fancy light fixtures in the design.The place has a wide variety of offerings and a price points. There is a small army of Asian chefs working behind a counter.They offer a variety of Asian dishes that are usually prepared in advance. If you order one that is not ready, you might have at least a 10 minute wait.During one visit, I got the chicken terriyaki with rice (139 CZK) and took it to eat at work. Warning, the box lid doesn't seal tight, so it leaks.The chicken was good, with a nice, crispy skin. There was a fairly salty terriyaki sauce poured over the top. I wouldn't have minded if it had a little more sweetness.

On the side, there was white rice, a small amount of vinegary cucumber salad and Korean kimchi, and some lychee fruit.

On another trip, I had the red curry chicken (139 CZK). These aren't the cheapest lunches you'll find in Prague, but they are some of the cheapest at the Palladium. It also took a while to come.The chicken was good quality, but I found the sauce, made with coconut milk, to be on the bland side. It also came with a mound of rice.

Perhaps the biggest attraction at Makakiko is the all-you-can-eat sushi and Asian food conveyor belts. The dishes there cannot be taken a la carte (as I saw one customer try to do).

They call it "Running Sushi." For lunch, it is 298 CZK per person. For dinner it is 398 CZK.

When I first looked at the offerings I wasn't too impressed. There was very little sushi, but there was a much greater variety of other small, Asian dishes.

Then, V told me she tried it and liked it. She also said she thought the lunch price was a bargain, considering what other sushi places in Prague charge. So, I decided to go and try for myself.

There are actually two conveyor belts. This upper belt has warm dishes.

The lower belt has cold dishes and sushi.

For a start, I went to the cold belt and got a cucumber salad. The cucumbers were in a sweet rice vinegar. There were also a few pieces of onion and a slice of red pepper. A refreshing beginning.

I'm a big salmon nigiri fan, so I had four pieces. I never saw any tuna going around. The salmon was nothing special, but very fresh.

When you consider that, a la carte, the restaurant charges 55 CZK per piece, it pretty much justified the cost of the lunch right there.

But there was much more to try.

I also had some octopus nigiri. Octopus is pretty tricky in sushi places. It is often rubbery or dried out.

I was happy to find that these pieces were fairly tender (though still a little chewy), and fresh.

I tried some rolls. The first one, I didn't like so much. I couldn't see what it was when I picked it up off the belt. I had to open one up. It looked like small pieces of chicken and cucumber.

It had very fishy, salty skin flakes on the outside.

The second roll was better. It has salmon across the top. Inside, was surimi (crab stick) and avocado. A few sesame seeds were sprinkled on top.

Rolls of this quality didn't come around too often. I also noted it is good to sit at the first table at the beginning of the belt to get first pick.

Each table also has soy sauce, a jar of wasabi, and gari (pickled ginger).

A plate of red, peppery kimchi caught my eye. The Korean cabbage had a decent spicy kick to it.

Otherwise, it was fairly basic, and tasted a little watery. Not much fermentation going on here.

Then, it was time to go to the hot belt. I tried a couple of different dumplings. Both were filled with ground pork meat.

Nothing too exciting. The meat didn't have too much seasoning.

I had some fried wontons. They were filled with a little bit of chicken meat. They were still warm and crunchy when they reached me.

Luckily, the belt has some sweet chili sauce coming around on a regular basis. I used some of it for dipping the wontons.

There was batter-fried chicken pieces. It was close to tempura batter, but not quite.

The chicken was hammered very thin, but still had a decent consistency. I alternated dipping it in the soy sauce and chili sauce.

I decided to finish the food fest with three pieces of batter-fried banana. They came with a glaze of honey on top and a little plastic fork.

There were a few other dessert options, but I decided I could eat no more.

To get the all-you-can-eat deal, you have to sit next to the belts. There were 14 or 15 tables with four seats each with access.

There are many other tables where a la carte orders can be placed. What amazed me was that people sat at those tables and had a drink while they waited for a conveyor belt table to open up.V told me she had seen a queue for the all-you-can-eat, but I could hardly believe it would be that popular. But it was true. I don't know if it is the same for dinner.

I had a bottle of water with my feast, so the final tally was 338 CZK. Not a cheap lunch, and it certainly wasn't the best variety or top quality stuff.

But if you are in an Asian food and sushi mood, it doesn't get much cheaper.

I wouldn't say the cost is excessive for what you get. I don't love eating in the middle of the mall. But if V wants to, I'd go again. So, I'd call it a success.

Makakiko Asia & Sushi Restaurant
The Palladium mall
Náměstí Republiky
Prague 1


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