Ambiente Ristorante Pizza Nuova

"'Tis no man. 'Tis a remorseless eatin' machine!" Captain McAllister, owner of The Frying Dutchman (The Simpsons)

All you can eat pizza and pasta? Sounded like a fool's game to me.

That's what they offer at Ambiente Pizza Nuova near Náměstí Republiky.I'd been to the spacious, cafeteria-like restaurant a number of times.But each time, I avoided the pizza and pasta.

Instead, I got the "try as much as you can" antipasti buffet (285 CZK).It was not a typical salad bar, with lots of quality stuff.

They had a variety of salads like Caprese.But there was also grilled and non-grilled vegetables, marinated fish, beef carpaccio, and several cheeses, including a giant block of Parmigiano-Reggiano that you can chip away yourself. And bread, too.

I always thought this was a great deal and one of the healthier options in the area. Right next to the salad bar, fresh fish on ice is out for inspection.But for some reason, the thought of stuffing myself to the gills with pizza and pasta didn't appeal to me. I wasn't planning on running any marathons, and felt no need to explore my carbo-loading limits.

The full title of this Ambiente restaurant is "La Verace Pizza Napoletana," and I wanted to test the claim on their oven that it's the real thing.I went with G-Man and a couple of other people. He got the Pizza Diavola (185 CZK).The menu says it comes with spicy Ventricina salami, fresh cow milk mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil, Grana Padano cheese, olive and sunflower oils.

It was one of the best European-style pizzas I've had in Prague. Very close in quality to the one we had at Naples' Da Michele. There was a nice char on the crust from the hot oven. If there was one big fault, it was that the oil caused the crust to go soggy rather quickly.

I then tried the Pizza Marinara (155 CZK). This was THE best pizza I've had in Prague.I know this is a classic style in Italy, but I'd never tried one before. Until this experience, I had held a irrational and preconceived notion that it couldn't be a pizza without cheese.

How wrong I was. This pizza was just amazing, my hands down favorite. The imported tomatoes, along with the basil, were very good on the Diavola, but they were muted and overshadowed by the cheese and pepperoni.

On the Marinara, these flavors were up and singing. When combined with the slightly blackened, fully crisp crust, I could not get enough of this one.

With my low expectations effectively raised, I decided to return another day for the unlimited pizza and pasta option (295 CZK before 6pm - 328 CZK after 6pm).This time, G-Man got the Pizza Margherita Classica (188 CZK).You can also get it with bufala mozzarella (245 CZK).

The Classica still had a slight soggy crust issue in the middle, but flavor-wise, it was top notch. I'd even recommend this simpler pizza over the Diavola. But the Marinara remains my favorite.

Once I set the all-you-can-eat machine in motion, the food came fast and furious. Almost too fast.You can always turn down something on offer, but when I came in, hungry and curious, I took on everything.

The servers carry small pans with freshly cooked pasta. I imagined it would be bad, but it really was well executed.

The gnocchi with porcini and cream had really distilled the lovely taste of the mushrooms.I much appreciated the Penne Alla Checca.The flavor of the tomatoes and basil had the similar enticing intensity found on the Pizza Marinara. There was also mozzarella and extra virgin olive oil in the mix.

I had Penne All´Amatriciana. The tomato flavor stood above the barely noticeable pancetta. But there was a respectable sharpness from the chili peppers.

I really enjoyed the Ragu Napoletana fusillata. Veal and pork were slow-cooked with red wine, basil and Grana Padano cheese into a fork-tender mound. It was a little salty, but oh so rich in flavor.

The seafood pasta was fresh and delicious.It had a coating of olive oil and, interestingly, what I thought might be a hint of orange, but could not be sure. It was superior to most of the bland versions I've had elsewhere.

There was a Penne Alla Tagliata. It was simple but delicious with good quality beef, rucola, tomato, garlic, Parmesan, and rosemary. With every dish I tried, the pasta came out al dente, never overcooked.

Things went less well on the pizza side. I took on the Capricciosa.The slice had a small amount of mushrooms, ham, and artichokes. But as I indicated before, with these pizzas, less is more.

Again, it got limp pretty fast, and it is a shame to cover up the quality that lies underneath.

I had a white pizza with cheese, with only chopped fresh tomato and basil.This was much better. The flavors were more clear, the crust more crisp.

While getting all the pizza and pasta I wanted was no problem, getting drinks was another matter altogether.

We were drinking beer. They have Staropramen. I was drinking Granat. They also serve Stella Artois.

It appeared that different waiters were responsible for drinks. On both visits, it was hard enough to get the first round delivered. The second round proved near impossible.

In fact, on our second trip, I had to chase down the manager to order a beer. And it still never arrived.

As we asked for the check, I told him to cancel it. He realized his lapse and apologized profusely as we left.Yes, I started with low expectations and was very pleasantly surprised at the great quality that came along with the great quantity of food.

They really do pack a lot of great flavors into almost every dish. That can't be easy when there are so many different variations going to so many customers, one pan at a time.

I'd love to go back for the Pizza Marinara. And almost any of the pastas, but perhaps the Ragu Napoletana.

It was great to be able to sample such a wide range of dishes for such a good price. But I wouldn't do it again. I felt less than well when I was done.

Rumors to the contrary, I’m no eating machine. And in the all-you-can-eat game, it’s hard to beat the house, however good the cooking.

I always end up eating too much and leaving full of both food and, yes, a little remorse.

Ambiente Pizza Nuova
La Verace Pizza Napoletana
Revoluční 1
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 221 803 308

Read the full post

Summary only

Los v Oslu

"Real women hunt moose." Quote on Sarah Palin's tote bag

If you hunger for moose in Prague, your options are limited.

In fact, there may be only one: Los v Oslu (The Moose in Oslo).There you will find a moose.But it's not the eatin' kind. It's just for lookin'.

We've been to the restaurant a couple of times. It's not far from where we live. Our first visit was many months ago during summer. We sat outside.

The kitchen offered a few Norwegian items in keeping with the name, but on the whole, the menu was all over the map.

V started with escargots (145 CZK). The six plump snails came with plenty of garlic butter, and garlic toast on the side. Less usual was the melted cheese on top.V said they were reasonably good, but not quite as good as Cafe Savoy's, which go for 185 CZK.

I had a Pilsner Urquell on tap.On our second, more recent visit, they had draft Staropramen (.5 liter/28 CZK), Stella Artois (.5 liter/38 CZK), and Hoegaarden (.5 liter/40 CZK).

No Pilsner Urquell, no Gambrinus.A major beer downgrade, gosh darn it!

For a main course, I had the Uruguayan rib eye steak with South American spices (325 CZK) and a side of "dollar" fries (38 CZK).I asked for the steak medium rare. We heard the waitress yell "medium rare!" to the kitchen. After a long wait, it came out. Well done.

The good quality beef was still tender. This indicated to me that is probably was Uruguayan and not Czech, but the spices didn't taste like South America to me.

I liked it, but itwould have been better if cooked as ordered. The juices underneath made the potatoes soggy.

V ordered the Balkan potatoes with bechamel sauce, vegetables, and cheese (125 CZK). She liked it -- good price, pretty tasty, and healthy.So, she was disappointed many months later when she returned and ordered it again.This time, there were more potatoes, less carrots, too much salty cheese, and over-cooked broccoli that was falling apart.

An inconsistent kitchen? You betcha!

On my second visit, I had the pork loin stuffed with dried plums, covered with plum sauce (195 CZK).The pork was overcooked, very dry, and tough. The plums were way too sweet. I wouldn't get it again.

However, I did like the crispy fried potato roti (38 CZK). They were similar to McDonald's hashbrowns, but with a lot more flavor.

There was also a Belgian beer club in the basement, and I saw they had a multitude of exotic brews from the Brabant on offer.I wanted to go down to check it out, but it was not happening that night. The lights were out.

It was a shame Los v Oslu had so many problems -- dried-out, tough meat, mushy veggies, and lousy beer.

Sounds like socialist food.

But what do you expect when you pal around with a bunch of Norwegian wannabes?

Given its convenient location, there is always the temptation to pop in for a bite on the way home.

But that would be wrong. A violation of all the good dining values that I stand for.

So, if I am ever behaving like a beast and compromising my culinary principles for the sake of expedience, perhaps some good lady will do the right thing.

Just shoot me.

Los v Oslu
Perunova 17
Prague 3
Tel (+420) 222 513 295

View Larger Map

Read the full post

Summary only

Kávovarna at Palác Lucerna

"Moderation is a fatal thing. Nothing succeeds like excess." - Oscar Wilde

When we last left our story's four insatiable adventurers, they were having beers, burgers, and a chimichanga in the Wild West Show scene at Buffalo Bill's.

For most, this would be enough. For us, the saga continued.

It turned into an unexpectedly long night of wide-ranging social intercourse and eclectic eating, liberally stimulated by the liberating effects of drink.

I was with the Michigan Man, the English Editor, and of course, the lovely and charming V. EE suggested Kávovarna, just off Wenceslas Square.

Off we went.

It is in the Palác Lucerna, which has an interesting history.

It was built by a man named Vácslav Havel, the grandfather of former Czech president Václav Havel.

The first section of the arcade opened in 1907 and it was it was finished in 1921.

A more recent addition was the David Černý sculpture hanging from the ceiling.

It is a comic reinterpretation of the statue that dominates the square outside.

St. Wenceslas is riding his horse, but in Černý's version, the horse is hanging upside down. Love it.

We entered this often crowded, smoky establishment and got a table and stools by the window looking out into the arcade. But the view can be interesting in any direction.This cafe is great for people watching, inside or out, which is the attraction of this place for some.

There were tables "outside" in the passage for people who want a little less noise and smoke, though it's too cold to sit out there in the winter.There was also a non-smoking room inside.

It can get a little noisy, and the chairs are nothing to write home about. But there are other attractions.Kávovarna, along with the rest Palác Lucerna, retains the patina of the past. It isn't fancy, but it has the charm of unprimped age that Nouveau Retro establishments can only aspire to attain.

During our visit, we started with half-liters of Pilsner Urquell (35 CZK). They also have Litovel dark beer for the same price.

There sell Hoegaarden, Guinness, Stella, and Leffe Brune in small bottles.

Bottles of red and white wine were available at 180 CZK to 550 CZK, with selections from the Czech Republic, France, Spain, and Chile.

Other alcohol-based drinks could be had, but what was interesting was the extensive non-alcoholic drink section of the menu.Sure, you can get your basic cappuccinos or espressos at this cafe.

But there were many other more creative options that were made at a separate coffee bar. There were a large variety of flavored syrups on display.On separate visit, I wanted to try a coffee, but I decided to keep things relatively simple. I ordered the Vanilla Royale Iced Coffee (54 CZK).

I really liked it.

Maybe you could take or leave the huge amount of whipped cream and the cherry. But it had a good coffee kick, and the syrup gave it just a touch of sweetness.

It beat the pants off the two different iced coffees I tried at Prague's new Starbucks. Those were truly awful.

At the global chain's outlet at Malostranské námestí, I had an iced Americano on one visit and an iced cafe latte on another.

One was way too watery. The other was way too milky. And they cost almost twice as much for a serving of approximately the same size.

Coffee Heaven is also in Palác Lucerna. It has more comfortable chairs, but it is also quite expensive.

At Kávovarna, without any extra cost, you can go wild with the syrups.

For example, they offered an iced Black Forest Mocha. It had chocolate, cherry, and coconut syrup, whipped cream, and chocolate shavings in a half-liter glass.

I doubt I'll ever try that.

Or an Iced Banana Split Cappuccino. Or a Hazelnut Decadence Iced Latte. Or a Double Decadence Delight, which has creme caramel syrup and chopped walnuts.

The cost for all are the same -- for your wallet or purse, anyway.

If coffee is not your thing, you can have a hot chocolate flavored with peppermint, raspberry or any other syrup. The even have sugar-free flavors.

There were syrup-flavored sodas (44 CZK) and even granitas (39 CZK).

But enough about the drinks. Let's jump back in time to our over-the-top evening adventure and talk about the limited food options.

I'd had a good memory of the spicy sausages with mustard and horseradish (45 CZK). I'd tried them a year earlier.

This year, they looked slightly different (I have pictures of last year's, too). I didn't like these so much.They were not the type you usually find around town. They were more pepperoni-like.

Which I like.

But they were also extremely greasy and a tough to chew, unlike last year. We didn't feel like finishing them.

We also ordered the traditional cheese with green olives for 48 crowns.It was a fairly boring cheese, enlivened by slightly creative presentation.

There are several kinds of nuts, including cashews, for around 40 CZK. Don't come to this place expecting a serious meal.

Like me, V is very curious about trying different foods. She saw some Czech cheese cake, tvarohový dort.It's similar to an American version, but it has raisins and is a bit more crumbly. We enjoyed it.

They also sell chocolate pralines with different fillings. V is always pushing the eating experience envelope, so four of them suddenly appeared on our table.

I tried most of them. Some I liked, some I didn't.

Don't ask me me which ones. At this point, the memory gets hazy. When we got the bill, it showed 18 beers for the four of us.

Spreading them out over four hours certainly helped lessen the intoxicating blow.

The effects of the alcohol were also blunted by the Tex-Mex meal, greasy sausages, olives, cheese, cheesecake, and chocolates.

It's not a pretty list.

You might call it excessive.

But, we all thought it added up to an unplanned and unexpectedly successful evening.

Oscar would be proud.

Kávovarna at Palác Lucerna
Štěpánská 61
Prague 1 - Wenceslas Square
Tel. (+420) 296 236 233


View Larger Map

Read the full post

Summary only

Viniční Altán at Vila Grébovka (The Vineyard Gazebo at Gröbe’s Villa)

"It is well to remember that there are five reasons for drinking: the arrival of a friend, one's present or future thirst, the excellence of the wine, or any other reason."
-Latin Proverb

I can't tell you how much I enjoyed the sunny days of early May after the long, gray winter.

We took great advantage of the beautiful weather on the May 8th national holiday and walked over to Havlíčkovy Sady. For those not in the know, it's a hilly park between Vinohrady and Vršovice.

Central to the park is Vila Grébovka. Most people actually refer to the park as Grébovka. It sits atop its own working vineyard.The Neo-Renaissance villa was built as a summer home for industrialist Moritz Gröbe in the 1870s.It sat decaying for many years, but a complete renovation was completed in 2007. It is now the home of the non-profit Central European and Eurasian Law Initiative (CEELI).

The institute organizes training for lawyers, judges, and others committed to law reform and democratization. The villa looks beautiful from the outside, but the house itself is not usually open to the public.

A friend who was inside recently for a conference said it is "amazing" and they did a very nice job restoring the interior.

Right underneath the villa is a reconstructed gazebo, Viniční Altán, where you can sit and drink the vineyard's wines and enjoy some light snacks.

Which we did.There aren't too many tables, maybe around 12 outside and a few inside.

It was a holiday, and many were empty. But that's unusual on nice spring and summer evenings. Often, none are open. Note: You have been warned.Above the terrace area, the top of the gazebo has a beautiful carved wood ceiling.

This area is not usually open to the public. But it is often used for weddings and other special events.The view of the Nusle Valley was lovely on a sunny day. Especially because the green, leafy trees obscure some of the less attractive parts of the Nusle Valley.Before I got to the wine, I started out with a non-wine-related beverage.

It was noon, and I really wanted a beer.

The choices available on tap are far from my favorites. They had only Staropramen and Stella Artois on tap.

Instead, I ordered a Hoegaarden. The weissbier came in a tiny .33 liter bottle (35 CZK). So, I had two.

It was refreshing start to the day.

V was in the mood for something wine-relate and had a glass of sekt or Czech "champagne" (60 CZK).

The small glass flute had a strawberry sitting across the top.

She also had some Mattoni sparkling water (25 CZK).

After these rounds, we decided to sample the wine.

They did have some international choices such as Jacob's Creek from Australia (120-360 CZK), Rutherford Ranch Vineyards from California (490 CZK), Italian wines (350-480 CZK), Argentinian (350 CZK) and more.

There was also a large selection of wines from all around the Czech Republic. Many were priced at 200-300 CZK for a .75 liter bottle.

V ordered a .25 liter carafe of the Rulandské šedé (70 CZK). She pronounced it "very nice." It was not anything special. Just light and drinkable.Oddly, looking at the menu on the Internet, I saw that only Rulandské modré costs 70 CZK, and the Rulandské šedé was 84 CZK. But the bill clearly says "GREB.RS 0.25L" and that it was 70 CZK.

On a previous visit, they were out of the Rulandské šedé. We tried something else from the Grébovka Vineyard. We didn't like it, but it was a while ago, and I can't remember what it was.

It being lunchtime, we also wanted some food. The menu was very limited. They mostly have desserts like ice cream, medovnik (honey cake), warm waffles with fruit, and a couple of other snacks. They have espresso, cappuccino, and such.

But they do have a couple of encased pork options.

V got the lahůdkové párky (deli hot dogs) for 46 CZK. There was a nice snap to the skin and decent-quality meat product inside.V said it was what Czechs usually call Viennese-style. Not bad as hot dogs go.

I went for the klobása (56 CZK). It's red skin was also pretty snappy.It was studded with fat beneath the skin, but I've had worse. I'd call it average and certainly edible. My last sausage on Wenceslas Square did not meet that standard.

Both of our plates came with ketchup, two types of mustard, and horseradish from a jar.

We also got a basket of sliced Czech bread. It was OK, but not super fresh.

I'll underline the obvious here: You don't really go to Viniční Altán for the food.

However, there are a number of other reasons to visit.

First and foremost is to take in a nice view on a nice day, along with some nice, cheap wine.

The question is, do you need another reason?

Viniční Altán
Havlíčkovy sady 1369 - Grébovka Vila
Prague 2
Tel. (+420) 222 516 887
GPS: 50°4'7.255"N, 14°26'39.607"E


View Larger Map

Read the full post

Summary only