Sunday, November 8, 2009

La Adelitas Restaurant

"This is like deja vu all over again." Yogi Berra
Three months ago, I wrote about the Mexican food delivery service, Las Adelitas. It was a mixed bag, and normally, I wouldn't revisit something so quickly.

But right after I did that post, I found out they were going from delivery only to opening an actual restaurant in Vinohrady.My curiosity meter jumped. I went three different times to check it out. It was a tiny place, just seven or eight tables. There were also a few spots by the bar.I was sorry to discover they served Stella Artois (.5 liter/35 CZK) and Staropramen (.5 liter/28 CZK). Not my favorite beers, but I had a Staro.It was nicely cold and crisp

They had a few varieties of margaritas. First, I tried the classic (89 CZK) without salt.It was tiny, but I really liked it. The drink was both very tart, sweet, and packed a little punch.

Unfortunately, it was gone all too fast. I know tequila isn't cheap, but the price seemed high for how small it was.

I also tried the mango margarita (99 CZK).There was sweet mango nectar and tequila in a glass rimmed with sugar instead of salt. There was also more liquid in the glass than with the classic. It was good, but you really have to like sugary drinks.

V tried a glass of red wine (29 CZK).She said it was fine, nothing special, but she couldn't believe the price. A real bargain. She even told the waiter they should charge more.

On my first visit, I looked at the menu and saw that there really aren't any offerings that could be called appetizers or starters. The only thing that comes close is the Sopa Azteca (49 CZK).The salty-sour broth contained shredded chicken tortillas, white cheese (Balkan style, the only thing close to a Mexican cheese), and dried red chilis that were quite chewy. Yes, it was spicy, but not overly so, even when I chomped on those peppers. The chicken was fresh and tender. I'd get it again.

Then, I ordered my favorite dish at Prague's other real Mexican spot, Fosil. That would be the Tacos Al Pastor (169 CZK).You get three soft corn tortillas filled with chunks of pork marinated in Pastor chili sauce. I admit I was dubious about the combination of fresh pineapple, onion, and cilantro before I had it the first time. But it is quite delicious.

My regrets with this version were that the meat was tough, it was barely warm, and they don't have the great hot sauces on the side that Fosil has.

Pineapple juice is supposed to break down the protein and make the pork tender, but it didn't happen here. Still, I'd say it was my favorite of all the dishes I tried.

On my next visit, I had the Burrito de Cochinita with pork (145 CZK).The meat was marinated with achiote, which is usually a paste of annato, coriander and cumin seeds, with black pepper and oregano.

The pork was succulent and tender, with lots of flavor. I enjoyed the black beans inside. What I didn't love so much was the leaves of iceburg lettuce wrapped up in there.I asked the waiter if that was how they did it in Mexico. He said no -- that it was usually served outside the burrito, but they put it inside to cater to local tastes. Too bad. It would be better without.

On the side was a green chili sauce, red rice, and black beans. The burrito also had lovely vinegared red onions on top.

On my last visit with V, I ordered the Enchiladas (169 CZK). They offer a green sauce and a red sauce, but I got the mole.This one was sweeter than some I've had. It was thick, spicy, and yes, just a little bit like a chocolate sauce. It was less weird than you think, but I like sweet and savory dinner dishes more than most people.

On the other hand, the chicken inside the rolled corn tortillas was too bland and a little dry.

V tried the Quesadillas Adelitas (169 CZK). There were three varieties -- pork, chicken or vegetarian, but you can get one of each, which is what she did.These were not quesadillas like any I had had before. First, two didn't have cheese as far as I could tell. Second, they were like fried corn meal turnovers, rather than the pan-fried tortillas I'm used to. They were topped with onions and Balkan-style cheese.

Again, the pork was the best, with the most flavor.Again, the chicken was dry and bland.And the vegetarian was filled with just mashed potato and cheese.It really was not tasty or interesting at all. Just greasy and heavy. Being from New York, it reminded me of a knish, if that means anything to you.

The service was always quick and very friendly. The waiter and manager always walked around the small place, asking people how they liked their food, getting feedback and having short conversations. Lots of smiles.That's very different from the service at Fosil. I like the Fosil's food, but the glacial pace and forgetfulness of the service often dissuade me from making a visit.

Las Adelitas Restaurant had many of the same dishes as their delivery service, with a few nice additions.

The dining area was too bright for my taste. They played good Mexican music, but ambiance was somewhat lacking. I've heard they are going to work on that.

I'd go back again, and I'd order anything, as long as it was anything made with pork.

And if you read my earlier Las Adelitas review, it's like deja vu all over again.

Las Adelitas Restaurant
Americká 8
Prague 2
Tel: (+420) 776 805 317

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Sunday, October 25, 2009

Luka Lu

"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” Mark Twain
I eat out all the time, and I'm always searching for something new and different. The list of places that I return to after more than a couple of visits is rather short.

When we're floating around Malá Strana and hunger strikes, we'll usually end up at one of three places: Little Whale for moderately priced international cuisine, Noi for some of the better Thai food in the city, or Luka Lu for Croatian comfort food.We were at Luka Lu, which means "Harbor Lu," twice in the last few months.

The first time, it was still warm, so we sat in their green, leafy garden in the back.It's rather unique in that they keep a variety of colorful birds there. They provide entertainment by jumping, flying, and squawking around.I suppose someone might find them annoying or distracting. But most kids, like me, love 'em.

The waiter started us out with good, chewy, crusty bread.With it came two types of cottage cheese-like spread. One was plain, the other was mixed with garlic and paprika.The cheeses had a smooth, clean flavor. It was a much nicer alternative to butter. Just be aware, this nice start had a price. There was a 35 CZK per head cover.

V got a mixed salad, which was mostly tomatoes and cucumbers (65 CZK).It needed dressing. I had to hunt down some oil and vinegar. It was very simple, and V thought it was a little too expensive for what it was.

I've had a number of great starters here in the past, including the prosciutto and melon (175 CZK) and the roasted pepper stuffed with cheese (145 CZK). I first posted about this restaurant more than two years ago and wrote about some of these dishes.

For a main course during our garden visit, I had calamari cooked on a lava grill (245 CZK). This is one of my favorites.The little squid were tender and smoky, not overcooked. There was a generous portion. And on the side was a lovely olive oil mixed with chopped fresh basil. A simpler but enjoyable version of pesto.

On the side, I had the American-style potatoes (55 CZK).This is a common feature on Czech menus, but the uninitiated should know that they are American only in the sense that French fries are French. They were a bit greasy, and a little bland. They're not the kind of potatoes you'd eat with ketchup. But I often order the condiment, ajvar, with them.

V loves a lot of the seafood dishes at Luka Lu, especially the octopus (385 CZK). It is baked and comes with what V describes as a "Balkan ratatouille." She also loves the "Spaghetti al'Gambari" (215 CZK). That's made with shrimp, basil, Parmesan, and cherry tomatoes.

But at this meal, she ordered the grilled dorade (355 CZK). The fresh, sweet meat was grilled to perfection.It was not fishy at all. There was some lemon and the olive oil with basil on the side. Again, simple but right.

On our second, more recent visit, we sat inside.The restaurant is full of brightly colored kitsch.The doll house decor is not my favorite, but some people love it. It does have its cheerful aspects. Even on the ceiling.V had a couple of glasses of white wine (85 CZK each).I was annoyed they don't serve Mattoni in .33 liter bottles.

Instead, they have those tiny .2 liter bottles of Bonaqua that do not quench my thirst, but parch my wallet. I boycott Bonaqua. So we ordered a .75 liter bottle of Valser sparkling mineral water (115 CZK).

V ordered the dorade again. I chastised her for not ordering something different so as to offer a greater variety of information for you, the reader.

However, the fish itself was as good as ever.She was not happy that the balsamic syrup that was under the fish on the first visit was now on top of it. She's a purist and didn't want uninvited flavors interfering with her fish.

I decided I wanted pljeskavice -- Balkan ground and grilled meat. But there was mix up. They have two kinds. There was the "Gourmet Pljeskavice" made with Eidam cheese and bacon (225 CZK). And there was just "Pljeskavice" stuffed with cream cheese (235 CZK).

When the waiter took my order, I had already closed my menu, so I said I wanted the "normal" one, meaning I didn't want "Gourmet." I should have been clearer, but "Gourmet" was what he brought me.A debate then ensued between V and the waiter about whether "Gourmet" meant "normal" and whether the waiter should have asked if he wasn't sure what I wanted. The discussion was rather odd and somewhat unpleasant as the waiter was defensive.

I said I'd eat the one that was served. In all honesty, I didn't like it so much. It had a pronounced bacon flavor, which I liked, but the meat patty was thick, tough, and chewy, and the cheese was on the rubbery side. I had grilled potatoes (45 CZK) on the side, which were a bit overcooked.Knowing Luka Lu as we do, we wouldn't let a few problems stand in the way of a return visit. We've had plenty more positive ones over the years.I will say V likes the restaurant more than I do.

She has had many meals there without me. As I said, she's a big fan of some of their seafood dishes.

It's not a cheap place -- our bills there average 1000 CZK for two. But we almost always feel we are getting value for money.

When navigating the treacherous, touristy restaurant scene of Prague, most people find a safe harbor at Luka Lu.

Luka Lu
Újezd 33
Malá Strana
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 257 212 388

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Sunday, October 18, 2009

Pescheria Adriatico

"Sell a man a fish, he eats for a day, teach a man how to fish, you ruin a wonderful business opportunity." Karl Marx
I have no manifesto, but I do have a mission: To eat, drink, and spread the wealth, so to speak, of my experiences.

I am determined to interpret this vague and self-assigned mandate as broadly as possible. In part, that is because I get bored easily. I don't like conventional limits.

So I write about food festivals, sausage stands, coffee houses, and yes, specialty food shops. In the past, I've done posts about Cheesy, Thai's Asian Food Shop, Aromi La Bottega, and a number of others.

Now, I'll tell you about Pescheria Adriatico, a new fish shop in Žižkov.I was tipped off by a trusted source, my neighbor, Pivobud.

He was pretty excited. Having a place that sells fresh fish in this part of town would save much traveling, if not money. One of the few other purveyors of good quality stuff, SeafoodShop, is down on Zborovská in Prague 5 -Malá Strana. There's another outlet in the Palladium shopping mall.

They are not cheap. They are not close.

I was very intrigued and went down for a look on a Saturday. The cases at Pescheria were not too full, but the stuff looked good.The place is still getting off the ground. Pivobud did some great intelligence work, interrogated one of the owners, and discovered the following:

The fish is currently delivered every Friday morning, so Friday's or Saturday morning (even though they have no posted hours for Saturday) is the best time to go. Avoid Thursdays unless they get more delivery days.There were two gentlemen who seem to be running the place. One is an Italian who apparently speaks French and some broken English, and a Czech guy who gave a lot of details about the shop.

It appears they are supplying some restaurants with their catch. Pivobud saw a leaflet for Pescheria Adriatico on the counter at Osteria da Clara.

Since they're connected with the Adriatic fishing community and bring their fish from an Italian coastal market, you can special order anything you want. You just have to let them know by Tuesdays and be willing to spend at least 500 CZK.

On my visit there, I picked up a dorade for V (400 CZK/kilo).This beautiful, clear-eyed fish cost 170 CZK.

V prepared it by slicing its sides, stuffing the cuts with cloves of garlic, then coating it with olive oil, salt and rosemary.

She cooked it under our oven's broiler.The flesh was pronounced delicate and delicious. Not fishy at all.

V told me that if I bought calamari, she'd clean and cook them (630 CZK/kilo). I jumped at the offer.I got all they had left in the shop, just a third of a kilo. The cost was 223 CZK.

I soaked them in milk. Then, after a dusting of flour, salt, and pepper, I flash fried them. They came out golden and delicious.They were not as buttery soft as calamari I've had in the USA. These were more firm and had a bit of snap to the flesh. But the taste was clean and light -- excellent along with some chili dipping sauce.

I didn't think the calamari would be enough for me, so I indulged and bought a slice of Pescheria's wonderful-looking tuna (1250 CZK/kilo).This filet cost me 253 CZK. I compared the price with the fish shop in Palladium, and they were almost the same. So, no great bargain here.

I got the first cut from the middle of a long piece of tuna, so it was really pristine -- a beautiful ruby red. I marinated it in soy sauce mixed with wasabi and lightly seared it on my cast iron grill.It picked up a sweet, smoky flavor along with some black stripes.

Then, I sliced it up, and dipped the pieces in soy sauce mixed with wasabi.My presentation could use work, but the flavor, which is what really counts, was perfect.

I'm not a big expert on what fish markets charge, but Pivobud called it "the best value for money in town."

His bill for four medium-size sea bass, almost two kilos, along with half a kilo of peeled shrimp, and 10 fresh anchovies, cost slightly under 1300 CZK.

He thought his catch that day would've cost double somewhere else.

Since neither of us knows a good place to fish in this particular part of Prague, I think there will be plenty of people for Pescheria Adriatico to sell to. They just need to expand their offerings and get more regular deliveries.

A wonderful business opportunity, I'd say.

Pescheria Adriatico
Bořivojova 11
Prague 3 - Žižkov
Tel (+420) 603 447 632

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