Sunday, April 20, 2008

Noem Arch - Brno

“Such is the human race, often it seems a pity that Noah... didn't miss the boat.”
-Mark Twain
It was certainly appropriate that it was pouring down rain the day we went to the Noem Arch restaurant in Brno.In English, V said she thought the name roughly translates as "Noah's Ark," but if that is the case, the Czech is not correct. Flaunting her Czech linguistics degree, she insisted it should be written as "Noemova Archa."

It turns out, there were plenty of things we found we not quite right about this flashy-looking place.

There is a giant, smiling photo of "celebrity chef Roman Hadrbolec" on the wall outside the restaurant.

According to his personal website, he served celebrities on a cruise ship and worked as a caterer in California for some big Hollywood stars.

You can also read about how he worked as a model and placed second in a swimsuit competition.

I'm sorry, but after eating in his restaurant, we were left with the impression of style over substance. That he's a pretty boy who serves pretty food, some of which tasted pretty bad.

That's a harsh assessment, but we didn't enjoy it much and honestly thought we could have done many of the Asian-influenced dishes better ourselves at home.

The dining room is big, open, and a little glitzy. We both thought it was a nice, modern space.Unfortunately, just outside the restaurant's big windows, there's an auto garage and a Tesco parking lot.

The waiter was the hyper-attentive sort that some people appreciate. Us? Not so much.

We're just not the types who need a guy wearing one white glove on his right hand to pour our mineral water throughout the meal.And speaking of water, we were offered the sparkling variety, said yes, and received .75 liter bottle of San Pellegrino. It wasn't too crazy a price at 100 CZK , but we didn't realize until later that small Mattoni were also available. I wished he had offered a choice.

One nice service touch was that they had little stools for women to put their purses on under the tables so they didn't have to rest them on the floor or hang them on the back of the chair.

There was an amuse bouche. It was a little piece of toast with creme fraiche and red caviar.

For a starter, V got the calamari with sea salt and chili peppers (250 CZK).

It is described as "lightly crumbed fried calamari rings." The flour-like coating was greasy and soggy. There was no crunch at all.

I've eaten fried calamari all over the world, including Hollywood. I'm something of an addict. And based on that extensive experience, I have come to believe that the exterior should be crispy. It will take more than one celebrity chef to convince me otherwise.It came with chili sauce on the side. From a bottle. Now, I happen to like that sticky, super-sweet stuff with the chili flakes. I have a bottle at home. But perhaps I expected a little more creativity.

It was a pretty small serving of calamari, but perhaps I say that because I just came from a trip to the U.S.A. where the same money would get you super-sized portion of fresh fried rings.

I ordered the stuffed homemade rice paper roll (150 CZK). The menu says the cold roll is filled with "chicken, prawn, rice noodles, lettuce, Rau Om herb and mint."It comes with the chili sauce or peanut sauce. I chose the latter. I really liked the sauce, but I don't have much else good to say.

The chicken was just naked as far as we could tell. We couldn't even taste any salt. Super bland. A missed opportunity. We couldn't taste any seasoning on the rice noodles inside, either. Super-duper bland. Plain lettuce?

The shrimp were OK, but not much expertise goes into those. We love the flavor of mint, but sadly, there were only a few small leaves dominated by everything else.

We've made both of these starters in our own kitchen from an Asian cookbook recipe. When we make the rolls, we soak the rice noodles in fish sauce and a little sugar. Also, we use basil instead of lettuce.

And we roll them thinner and tighter so they can be cut with a knife. The big fat one we got exploded all over the plate with one cut. No more roll.

For a main course, V ordered the Red Snapper in banana leaf and stuffed with aubergine and lime sambal (390 CZK).

The menu said it was steamed in a banana leaf, but it was apparently removed in the kitchen.It was a nice piece of fish. The vegetables, including carrot, bean sprouts, and Enoki mushrooms was quite good.

But the aubergine and lime sambal? Truly awful. Both of us thought it was inedible. The stuffing was intensely salty, and it also had an unpleasant, acrid sesame flavor.

Something was wrong with the oil, we both thought. V had to scrape it off to the side of the plate.

I had the lamb saté with spicy peanut sauce (300 CZK). We both liked this the best.

There was a respectable amount of lamb, which had been beaten into a tender state, and cooked on wooden skewers. It had a slight smoky flavor. The peanut sauce, again, was nice.The rice noodles on the side were mixed with peanut and coconut milk, as far as I could tell. It was also bland.

I asked the waiter for salt. He brought some, explaining that salt is not left on tables because dishes are "as they should be."

Trust me, salt was a big improvement. I threw some on the lamb, as well. I also put some peanut sauce into the noodles (was that how it should be?).

After the DIY seasoning at the table, we both enjoyed it.

But overall, we were pretty unhappy. The bill for lunch, with tip, came to 1500 CZK. I don't mind spending that kind of money if I leave with a smile on my face.

But we weren't smiling. We were disappointed.

This Hollywood extravaganza wasn't worth the price of admission.

And unlike most Hollywood productions, we didn't even get a happy ending.

Noem Arch Restaurant
Cimburkova 9
612 00 Brno – Královo Pole
Tel. (+420) 541 216 160


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Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Saint Nicholas Cafe (Closed)

** NOTE: This place closed long ago under its long-time original management. I've read it is now a pizza restaurant under the same name. (August 12, 2012)

"Saint: A dead sinner revised and edited." Ambrose Bierce
I was planning a meeting with the English Patient and a couple of Irish friends.

We needed a place for a drinking session. Food was an afterthought.

Location was an issue -- Mala Strana was requested.

Saint Nicholas Cafe was chosen.

The exterior wasn't much to look at, with beat up, patchy painted walls.

After stepping through the first set of doors, the entrance to the cafe inside a passage is slightly more attractive.

Inside, slightly below street level, is a dark, atmospheric, and even historic space. The owners say the building dates back to 1554.

There are often expats seated at the bar. Saint Nicholas Cafe is not far from a number of embassies.They also say the decorative painting replicates the style of a much earlier time. There is certainly a patina on the walls. Whether it is from age, cigarette smoke, or both, I cannot say.As I said, the main order of business for us was alcohol.

Becherovka and beer to be specific.

The four of us consumed 18 Becherovka shots (50 CZK each), 6 half-liters of Pilsner Urquell (40 CZK each), and 4 half-liters of Gambrinus (33 CZK each).

A typical English-Irish meeting. Damage inflicted on all sides.

For the uninitiated, Becherovka is a liquor flavored with cinnamon, anise, and 32 other herbs that supposedly have medicinal qualities.

It is 38 percent alcohol, which was the only medicine I needed.

As the session stretched into the evening, we decided to order food. The menu options were limited. We settled on three pizzas.

We sampled a Margherita pizza with tomatoes and onions (105 CZK).There was a diavola pizza with pepperoni, onions, and a some red and green cherry peppers (145 CZK).And a Hawaiian pizza with the standard ham and pineapple (125 CZK).My memory of these pizzas are somewhat hazy. For example, I don't recall what that white cheese in the middle of the diavola was.
In fact, after the initial post, I was angrily informed by a commenter that the "cheese" was, in fact, an egg. Such are the dangers of drink.

But I do remember that the crust was good and crunchy. Also, the price was nice. I have the receipt to prove that.

Otherwise, all the pizzas were fairly unremarkable. No one was too impressed. But I'd certainly get one again if I needed food support during a prolonged a prolonged beverage-oriented mediation.

I have to confess, I was feeling pretty dead when we were done. I'd had my share of drinks, washed down with pizza dough.

But I knew what to expect -- it wasn't exactly a meeting of saints.

Perhaps if I do a little more editing...

Saint Nicholas Cafe
Tržiště 10
Prague 1 - Mala Strana
Tel. (+420) 257 530 204


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Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Posezení U Čiriny

"I do not like broccoli. And I haven't liked it since I was a little kid and my mother made me eat it. And I'm President of the United States and I'm not going to eat any more broccoli."

-U.S. President George H.W. Bush, 1990
V often makes me do things she thinks are good for me. Since I'm not president of anything, it is usually good politics to do what she asks.

One day, she decided I should broaden my culinary horizons. Her feeling, ironically, was that I needed to visit more restaurants frequented by Czechs.

And so it came to pass that we had lunch at Posezení U Čiriny (Gathering at Čirina’s).The chef, Irena Kosiková, once worked as the personal cook for Vaclav Havel when he was the Czech president.

Serving the high, if not the mighty, runs in the family. A recent article in Tyden magazine informed us that Kosiková's grandmother cooked for Hungarian nobility in Budapest.

Also of note, the restaurant was The Prague Post's editors' choice in 2004 for the best Czech or Slovak restaurant.

In addition to Czech and Slovak cuisine, there were Hungarian choices and local interpretations of Asian dishes.

The small dining rooms were very cozy, with just a few tables, low ceilings, and historical prints on the walls.

All the other tables were full and, yes, all the diners were speaking Czech.We were lucky to get a table as mid-afternoon walk-ins. It's popular, so if you want to go, I'd recommend reservations.

We started off splitting a bowl of borscht (40 CZK). V said it was good, but more of a Hungarian version than Russian. I thought it was on the bland side. I added a lot of salt.Havel himself is said to love the stuff. But the Tyden article said that Kosiková was the castle cook, the president kept his own spice grinder on the table.

The article said Havel is not, for the most part, a fancy food lover and likes Central and Eastern European traditional "classics." Which they have at Posezení U Čiriny.

And he likes the place so much that he brought his old friend, Joan Baez, to the restaurant after her 2007 concert at Lucerna's Grand Hall.

For a main course, I ordered the "Napoleon" skewer -- pork tenderloin with bacon-wrapped prunes (260 CZK). The meat was coated with drippings from the pan.

There was rice on the side. and it was mixed with broccoli. I don't love broccoli any more than the first President Bush. V makes me eat it because it's good for me. But there was only a little, and I really didn't mind so much.

Overall, the dish was just OK. I liked the mix of sweet and savory. But the pork was over-cooked and on the tough side.

We had to wait a long time for the main courses to come. V mentioned the delay to the waitress and she apologized. Our server said the kitchen was swamped because of a large party in another dining room.

V got the chicken with almonds, leeks, and pineapple (180 CZK). Rice was extra (40 CZK).

She had had it before and recommended it to me, but I thought I should try something more... regional (though I'm sure someone could argue there is a tradition of Asian-style dishes in this country).It was quite sweet, but the chicken was incredibly soft and tender. There wasn't much more to it than that.

I'll confess that I liked it more than the pork. In fact, we switched plates halfway through the lunch.

Aside from drinks, that's all we had. Perhaps, at a place like this, we should have tried specialties like the Bryndzové halušky (140 CZK), Slovak-style potato dumplings with sheep cheese, and bacon.

I've heard the strapačky se zelím (140 CZK) is also worth trying. It is similar to halušky, but instead of cheese, it has sauerkraut mixed in.

There are many variations, so I hope I've described it properly.

In the final analysis, I can't say I liked Posezení U Čiriny that much. But I didn't dislike it, either.

The dining room had a warm atmosphere. And if V wants to go again, I'll go and have the chicken without complaint.

Even about the broccoli.

Posezení U Čiriny
Navratilova 6
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 222 231 709


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