Coa

"Ivan Ilyich's life was most simple, and most ordinary, and therefore most terrible." Leo Nikolaevich Tolstoy

I have a most terrible obsession with Asian food. My recent trip to Berlin attests to this. In the land of currywurst, I ate only Japanese, Vietnamese, Indonesian, and Thai.

It's fair to say that the German capital has higher quality and a wider variety of offerings than Prague.

Next to my hotel off Potsdamer Platz, there was an Asian restaurant called Coa. The chain, which has outlets around Germany, offers an eclectic mix of dishes that cross a number of borders.

At the beginning of March, Coa opened in Prague -- its first non-German outlet.

The bright, eye-catching space in the high-traffic area at Náměstí Republiky provoked my curiosity.

The investment in design made me think they'd invest heavily in the cooking.

There are a variety seating options. They have lounge-like banquettes.

There's a small, semi-private area, separated by screens.

One could select tables against walls with rough wood panels.

Or you could try the long tables with stools in front of the open kitchen.

On my first visit with my Italian companion, we started with soup. She got "the meatless bunch" (75 CZK).

This was a vegetable soup with shiitake and button mushrooms, bok choy, red chilies, and cherry tomatoes. The flavorful, steamy broth had a strong shot of soy. We both liked it.

I had the pumpkin and coconut soup with prawns, button mushrooms and chives (109 CZK).

It was creamy, sweet, and tangy. The coconut overshadowed the pumpkin. I thought it was good and would get it again.

We both decided to drink wine, and what they serve is on the expensive side. Wines by the glass are 70 to 80 CZK for .1 liter. We drank glasses of Chupin Rosé d'Anjou.

It was too sweet for me. They also serve .25 liter bottles of Bonaqua (25 CZK), which I hate.

Next up was what they call "Summer in a Roll" otherwise known as summer rolls. They are 95 CZK, plus a supplemental charge depending on whether you choose chicken, beef, or duck to go with it. With duck, it adds up to 209 CZK.

The way they serve it is more common in Asia, though I've never seen it in Europe: roll your own. The cold, moist rice paper is held between circular, plastic mesh discs. Peal one off, fill it up, fold it up, dip and eat. They gave me three, but told me I could have more if necessary.

I won't show you how mine turned out. It held together, but it wasn't so pretty. Frankly, I'd rather have someone do it for me.

You can load it with unseasoned rice noodles, mint, coriander, carrot, spring onions, lettuce, and bean sprouts. There was a hoisin dipping sauce on the side. The cold duck was good and reasonably moist and fresh, but nothing too special.

The small "Mango Chicken Fresh-up" (115 CZK) is basically a salad.

This includes hoisin-marinated chicken, lettuce leaves, red pepper, black sesame and mango-chili dressing. The menu said it came with chopped peanuts, but these were unchopped and difficult to keep on a fork.

The mango was a little on the sour side and the chicken didn't have much flavor. The whole thing was awkward to mix together in the small bowl. To eat the components in combination, I decided to use a spoon.

My friend got the wok vegetables, which included bok choy, broccoli, and red peppers.

This was good. The vegetables retained crunch and flavor.

We shared a mix of 8 dim sum (159 CZK).

There's the "pork and prawn meeting," "sesame pool duck," and more. Dim sum is a rarity in Prague, and I'd rate almost all as good. We both were put off by the "sweet & creamy fusion," which was just cream cheese.

I had some room, so we ordered the "lemon beef noodle session" (154 CZK).

The meat was well-marinated in lemongrass, but the beef itself was low quality. It was tough and underwhelming underneath the seasoning. The noodles were plain and unseasoned. Disappointing.

Finally, I ended with a glass of ginger iced tea.

It cost around 60 CZK. It was a strong brew with the flavor of real Thai tea. Slices of ginger floated at the top, but it did not infuse into the tea. I couldn't really taste it.

What I could taste was a shocking amount of sugar. I had to order an extra glass and ice, pour some of it out, and dilute it with water. Then it was drinkable. I wished they had a version with condensed milk.

After this, I made a solo visit. I ordered the beef masaman (255 CZK).

In the bowl were sweet potatoes, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, and snow peas. Again, the beef was tough and it had an odd flavor.

All was covered with a thin coconut milk curry that tasted of lime leave and provided some heat. I'm always wishing the curries at Asian restaurants in Prague had thicker sauce.

To drink, I got the "Thai basil smash," also known as the Coa Mojito (125 CZK).

It was a dull, flat, and watery failure.

For dessert, I had the chocolate hazelnut cake (50 CZK).

It was OK, but had the rather artificial quality of a mass-produced dessert.

I returned for one last meal. We got the "coconut clash" or tom kha gung (97 CZK).

I'd rate this as above average. It had a good balance of sweet and sour, a little chili kick, a good hit of galangal and coriander, and a creamy consistency. The prawns were small but cooked just right. It was rounded out with mushrooms and spring onions.

The "papaya prawn parade" (98 CZK) was OK.

I liked the Thai chili dressing with lots of fish sauce, but it quickly pooled in the bottom of the bowl. There were too many bean sprouts for my taste. They overwhelmed the cherry tomatoes, mint, and papaya. Again, the peanuts were unchopped and awkward.

The prawn package dim sum was good (108 CZK).

Finally, I had the Pad Thai with shrimp (188 CZK). I use this dish as a measuring stick for any restaurant that does Thai.

Unfortunately, I'd rate it as another fail. The whole was less than the sum of its parts. It was bland, one-dimensional, and needed more lime juice and a salty note, perhaps some fish sauce. The sliced pieces of prawn were tiny. Again I was chasing the rolling peanuts around the plate.

If they want a lesson on how to do Phad Thai right, they should send the chefs over to Noi. They cook the best I've had in Prague.

I thought Coa would turn out Asian cuisine of a higher international standard than we've become used to in Prague. Granted, I didn't try many things from their long menu, but my high expectations were brought low by a number of lackluster dishes. It's not exactly cheap, either.

It's a new place that has a different style than we've seen before here. Hopefully with some experience and constructive feedback, they'll improve.

Right now, despite its fancy looks and quirky menu, I'd say most of the food I tried was most simple and most ordinary.

Coa
Revoluční 1
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 222 318 724

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CottoCrudo

“We enjoy change and freshness and disco was only one area we've delved into." Barry Gibb

The big news for foodies recently was that Michelin awarded one coveted star to the Prague restaurants, La Degustation and The Alcron.

The only previous recipient was Allegro at the Four Seasons Hotel. It was helmed by star chef, Andrea Accordi. When he moved on, Allegro closed down.

Instead of maintaining the status quo, the Four Seasons folks started over from scratch, changing everything from the food to the furniture.

In Allegro's place is the brand new, CottoCrudo. The name means "cooked/raw," which is the basic theme. The executive chef is Richard Fuchs.

You can enter either through the hotel or directly into the bar lounge area.

As you walk into the main restaurant, you pass the Crudo Bar.

There, a variety of mozzarellas, other cheese, and cured meats can be prepared according to your wishes. Some enjoy watching the show.

The dining area has casual chic feel that is much better than Allegro's more hotel-like space.

It's modern but not pretentious. Lighting was low, but not too low, lending more atmosphere.

The dining room is non-smoking. There is outdoor dining on the terrace in warmer months. Smoking is allowed there, weather permitting.

We went shortly after opening when things were quiet and scored one of the few tables with a castle view.

The music was cool, but not too heavy. A friend did complain to me that on a separate visit, the restaurant was busy and loud.

A basket of bread arrived. There was good, crusty Italian bread and light, spongy focaccia flecked with rosemary.

Strong, sharp olive oil sat on the side.

We wanted different wines, so my date had the 2010 Giacobbe Pinot Grigio, blush (180 CZK). I had the 2010 Broglia Gavi il Doge (150 CZK).

The prices are for .15 liter servings.

It would be easy to run up the bill quite quickly with wine. Most, but not all the bottles on their list are over 1000 CZK. They do offer .5 liter servings for those who want to split the difference.

We also had a .75 liter bottle of Mattoni (90 CZK). I was glad to see they served this good Czech mineral water and don't push the fancier and more expensive Italian stuff.

I started off by ordering the smoked mozzarella from the Mozzabar (140 CZK).

I've had semi-hard circles of scamorza before, but I'd never tried a fresh, creamy ball of bufala like this. The lightly smoky and silken cheese was a revelation.

In some places, the tomatoes are an afterthought. These Italian imports were just amazing -- the best I've had outside of Naples. They captured the true essence of the fruit.

I also had to try their salumi so I got the Misto CottoCrudo board (380 CZK).

This included Prosciutto di Parma, salame felino, bresaola, mozzarella di bufala, Pachino tomatoes, and rucola. This was some of the best I've tried. All the meats were soft and buttery.

Often, I find this stuff too salty. This was not the case here. The salinity levels were right where I wanted them. My date didn't want any, so I ate it all myself, with only good effects.

It was time to taste their raw fish. First up was the lobster with pink grapefruit, and chives (240 CZK).

The price looks small for lobster, but so is the portion. The pieces were the size of your thumb. But they were very good pieces, so delicate and lightly cooked.

The grapefruit does not overwhelm -- it has a hint of the citrus with little bitterness and some sweetness. Underneath was gari, the pickled ginger served with sushi.

Next, we had the scallops with red radish, lime, and sweet chili (190 CZK).

These six pieces were the size of small coins and sliced just as thin. The olive oil and tiny slices of non-spicy chili pepper dominated. The scallops themselves provided more of a buttery texture than flavor.

Then there was the yellowfin tuna with sea salt and coriander (190 CZK). This one was just a little more substantial.

The chunks of fish were as fresh as could be. They sat on cucumbers that absorbed a small amount of a mild garlic and balsamic vinegar, lending some sweetness. They were gone in four quick, meaty bites.

At this meal, we shared one main course (piatti forti). It was the pan-fried cod with chickpea puree, guanciale and artichokes (490 CZK).

It's hard to emphasize what a nice piece of fish this was. The chef did it justice with not too much heat and not too little. Top to bottom, it was just right.

On the side, there was a lemony chickpea puree, whole chickpeas, the tasty tomatoes, excellent artichoke hearts, and wilted bok choy. My health conscious date deleted the guanciale without me catching her. She knows I don't allow substitutions during my evaluations.

Even without it, this dish was gorgeous in its simplicity, letting the outstanding quality of each element shine through.

I'm a big dessert guy and couldn't make up my mind, so I went for the mix of three desserts (280 CZK).

There was the crostata with ricotta and mascarpone, which was basically cheesecake but seriously heavy and didn't thrill me. There were biscotti, which I can't imagine paying 180 CZK for as a separate dessert.

Then there was the Amarena cherry chocolate cake. Dio mio!

You'd think that cream would be heavy, but you'd be wrong. It was impossibly light and heavenly. Inside, there were sweet and sour cherries with chunks of bittersweet chocolate.

An espresso at the end was 50 CZK. This multifaceted meal cost 2520 CZK. I was surprised we kept it under 3000 CZK.

We enjoyed the meal so much that we were back again a few days later. I called to reserve the same table again. They wouldn't guarantee it, but it was quiet so we scored it again.

On our return, I needed a stiff drink after a hard day, so I started with a cocktail. The London Rain is Tanqueray, fresh mint, and dry vermouth (230 CZK).

It was soul-refreshing. I really dug the verdant look and flavor.

I rationalized that some of the wines cost just as much, and it is a Four Season hotel, after all. However, the price is well above what you'd fine at Prague's top cocktail bars. My Italian companion had the Aneri Prosecco (230 CZK), which she enjoyed.

They have some serious cheeses beside mozzarella. There was robiola capra from Piemonte (140 CZK) on the left, with its creamy hint of goat. I had the gorgonzola dolce from Piedmont (110 CZK) on the right, which was also creamy and mild.

At the lady's suggestion, I tried the Pecorino di Fossa from Marche (240 CZK). It was expensive for such a small slice, but it was the most interesting and worth the experience. It was sharp, tangy and, to my surprise, it had a sharp, stinging finish. This sheep's cheese gets its kick from a complex maturation process that includes being left in straw-lined holes in the ground.

For a starter, my date had violet artichokes with mint and thin wisps of that same Pecorino di Fossa (360 CZK).

The fine artichokes were mixed together with eggplant and their quality tomatoes, some of which were concentrated into sweetness. It was a tasty but expensive little salad.

I couldn't resist the pull of the homemade black tagliolini with lobster (550 CZK).

The tender lobster meat had just the right sweetness. We agreed that the pasta was overcooked. And this was the only time the fresh tomatoes misfired for me. I thought the sauce was too sweet and one-dimensional.

During the meal, we tried a glasses of Chablis (240 CZK) and Barbera d´Alba  (230 CZK).

The enjoyable red was round and full-bodied.

For a main course, I had the tagliata di manzo with glazed shallots and morels (640 CZK).

The medium rare beef from Piemonte had the lovely lean but tender and dense texture I'd experienced before with a steak I'd had at La Finestra in Cucina. The meaty morels were rich and chewy and the shallots were a fine partner. The fennel underneath was just too sweet and overwhelmed the rest. I'd give La Finestra's rib eye the edge in this battle.

My Italian companion ordered the grilled yellowfin tuna with eggplant caviar and caponata (630 CZK).

Before we could say anything, the waiter took the words out of our mouths, saying that the fish would only be briefly seared on each side and served very rare -- basically "blue."

"Perfect," we both said. "That's exactly how it should be. We want to see a lot of red."

Of course, there will always be different interpretations of "very rare." so when it came out with a centimeter of cooked fish on the outside of the thick cube of tuna, it was sent back to the kitchen. To their credit, it was re-done without fuss or complaint and a new tuna arrived, cooked exactly as desired.

And it was a pristine piece of quality tuna. The rich caponata sat on a piece of decadent, buttery toast. The tomatoes had a lemony pop. I know caponata includes capers, but neither of us are big fans of those and there was an overabundance, including in the eggplant caviar.

I'd say the service was generally excellent, both friendly and efficient, though both visits were on quiet nights. The waiters were knowledgeable about the dishes, fielding many questions about ingredients and preparations.

I'd take away a point because the overly helpful manager sometimes followed up after the waiters, asking questions that had already been answered or grabbing a plate we'd already requested to keep on the table.

We were carried away by curiosity on this second trip, wanting try everything. Our lack of restraint, perhaps due to the extra round of drinks, showed up on the tab. The bill for this evening was 3810 CZK. Drinks accounted for 930 CZK.

This ristorante has its work cut out for it. There is plenty of competition for Italian places on the top end, including Aromi, Gabriele Ristorante, VINOdiVINO, Divinis Wine Bar, and neighboring La Finestra.

I've eaten at all of them, and I say the Four Seasons is worth a visit. I was often amazed by the quality, if not always by the creativity.

If you are looking for freshness and change, delve into CottoCrudo.

CottoCrudo
Four Seasons Hotel
Veleslavinova 1098/2a
Prague 1
Tel: (+420) 221 426 880

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La Bottega di Finestra

"Nothing is more expensive than a missed opportunity." H. Jackson Brown, Jr.

I grew up near New York City. That means I was surrounded by Italian food.

Italian-American food to be precise. In addition to the many restaurants, there were fantastic Italian delis with sausages hanging from the ceiling, cases full of fresh salads, prepared meals for reheating, cured meats, and amazing, fresh sandwiches.

In New York, the long rolls stuffed with all kinds of things from meatballs to fried eggplant are called "heroes." And they are that to me.

In recent years, Prague has been getting some high quality Italian food shops that remind me of my youth. Wine Food Market and La Bottega di Aromi arrived in recent years.

But the newest of all is La Bottega di Finestra.

It's in Old Town, next to the restaurant La Finestra in Cucina, the sister restaurant of Aromi.

When I walked in the door, it reminded me of a richer, fancier version of my childhood deli playgrounds. And I came to play.

The shop's display cases are a cornucopia of Mediterranean edibles. Let's go through them on a case by case basis.

In the front room, along with a number of tables for sitting down for a nice meal, there are salads, quiches, beans, rolled and stuffed veggies and more.

They have fresh pastas, sauces, and olives.

There's a dessert case with mostly Italian sweets and baked goods.

Wicker baskets offer up bright, fresh produce.

In the passage to the large back room, there's a meat case with fresh sausage, duck and other birds of a feather, and Chianina beef.

Close by are fresh fish and seafood on ice, including squid, oysters, salmon, and prawns.

You can take the stuff home, or they'll cook it for you. The caveats here are price is marked up 80 percent for preparation and it could take up to 45 minutes.

In the back, walls were filled with medium to high-priced Italian wines -- many are 400 CZK and beyond.

Nearby, there was an quick-moving Italian man to meet our ham and cheese needs.He works in front of a well-stocked "cheese cave."

There are also tables in the back and we grabbed one.

On the table was a menu with six daily special offerings.

We started with the mozzarella and Piennolo tomatoes, which are only grown on vines around Mount Vesuvius (115 CZK).

The cheese had a rich and creamy character, and there was plenty of basil. I'd never had this type of tomato. These were quite sour. But I thought it was a nice price for a Caprese with imported components.

With our meal, we had .15 liter glasses of Hartmanm Pinot Grigio (110 CZK) La Minaia Gavi di Gavi (115 CZK).

Both were dry and very drinkable, but we preferred the fruitier Pinot. Any bottle can be pulled off a shelf and served for the list price plus a 30 percent corkage fee. We also had a .7 liter bottle of Mattoni (75 CZK).

He had some of their excellent, crusty, homemade Italian bread and rolls (19 CZK).

If you like them, you can by whole loaves.

We tried some items from the salad case. I got the mangold leaf stuffed with bread crumbs and Parmesan.

Mangold is also known as Swiss Chard. The full leaf had a refreshingly verdant flavor, though the cold block of crumbs and cheese inside were not especially interesting or the greatest texture.

We tasted a beautifully smoky and silky aubergine caviar. It was one of the best eggplant spreads I've had. And there was a cold layered mozzarella, eggplant, and tomato offering. This was OK, but nothing too special. Maybe it'd be better if it wasn't served at such a cold temperature.

These three items on one plate came to 169 CZK.

Then we wanted some hot stuff. They had homemade veal and truffle ravioli behind the counter (145 CZK).

The waitress suggested a butter and sage sauce. My Italian companion argued against it, saying the sage would clash with the truffle.

I love butter and sage, but she was right. The butter was fine, but I had to take away some of the sage. Oh, and the ravioli was terrific, al dente pockets filled with minced meat and the aroma of the expensive mushrooms.

From the daily menu, I went for the cannelloni filled with ricotta, radicchio and topped with a Parmesan fondue (145 CZK).

I thought it would be heavy. It wasn't (at least by my standards). The interior was creamy and crunchy, while the Parmesan that pooled below but was not poured over the top, was tasty and tangy. Given the quality, it was a real good deal.

We pressed on. We put ourselves in the hands of the master behind the counter.  We asked him to pick out some cheeses.

There was a salty, creamy Taleggio, a tangy Branzi from the Bergamo region, and a good and a goaty mountain goat cheese (capra alpina). We enjoyed that one the most.

How much did the cheeses cost? I don't know. These weren't on the bill at the end.

He also sliced us some Prosciutto di Parma that was so thin, you could see through it.

It was quality stuff. But it was good it didn't weigh much. That ham goes for 1365 CZK a kilo. Our slices cost just 19 CZK.

I was getting full, but I went full tilt at the desserts. I had a piccolo Cannolo Siciliano (35 CZK). Inside the softened shell casing, the sweetened ricotta was lusciously lemony, with chunks of chocolate mixed in.

One tiny tart was filled with a rich pistachio puree (35 CZK). The other two had cream and fruit (32 CZK each). I liked them all but wasn't thrilled with the size to price ratio.

This almost endless feast set me back 1162 CZK. I thought it was absolutely worth it.

Before I go, I just have to mention that next door at La Finestra in Cucina, I had one of the best dishes of the year. It was Ravioli filled with oxtail, served with aubergine caviar and Parmesan fondue (375 CZK).

This ravioli released a beefy perfume that went up through the palate and directly into my sub-cranial pleasure centers. Eyes rolled back and the smile turned up.

I saw this repeated when my vision returned to normal and my date took a bite. The blissful reaction was the same. The super smooth sauce was different than the version at La Bottega and was one of the most decadent things I've tasted in a while. And the sweet eggplant puree underneath balanced it all out. Wow.

Let me conclude by saying that of all the Italian shops that have rolled into town, La Bottega di Finestra is the Ferrari. Depending on your tastes and hunger, it can get a little expensive, but I'm glad I didn't miss the opportunity for a test drive.

La Bottega di Finestra
Platnéřská 11
Prague 1 - Old Town
Tel. (+420) 222 233 094

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