Showing posts with label Nightlife. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nightlife. Show all posts

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Cloud 9 Sky Bar & Lounge

"The brightest sunshine of success is not without a cloud." Samuel Johnson
Cloud 9 Sky Bar & Lounge first floated onto my radar screen at the 2009 Prague Food Festival. The beef satay from their stand was a little dry, but I had a feeling they could do better on their home turf.

More recently, I checked out the internet menu of this relatively new cocktail spot on top of the cube-like Hilton Hotel, which is not to be confused with the Hilton Old Town.There were a lot of tempting items, and I thought the cocktail prices looked relatively reasonable for such an upscale place.

And I was curious. Despite many years in Prague, I'd never set foot in this Hilton, which boasts a top-end restaurant. Something about the location and the architecture put me off, even though it's pretty close to the Florenc metro station and bus stops.

The other night, I walked into the atrium and eventually found the special mirrored elevator up to the roof. I came out into a dark black marble hallway.When I turned the corner, there was a corridor that looked liked the entrance to CONTROL headquarters in "Get Smart." Lights around each section blinked on and off in succession, bidding you to follow.Just before entering the cocktail lounge, I passed one of the terraces.There was a somewhat distant view of Prague Castle, sitting above a much closer insurance company office building.I turned right past a well-dressed, well-muscled door man and walked into the purplish-hot pink seating area.I discovered they can alter the colors and the lights came down more later on. Techno-style music, which fit the decor, was played at an acceptable level. But it was not exactly my favorite style.

A bevy of attractive hostesses descended upon me as I sought out the optimal place to sit. I walked with them over into the second section of the lounge, but there were only four-seaters there.

So, I went back to where I started and sank down into a comfortable chair at a two-top. V was out of town -- I was going to have to manage solo once again. I was surrounded by, from what I could tell, were mostly hotel guests. There was a spread of age ranges. A fair number of Americans.

They started me off with some chips and nuts. They may not look like much, but these were some of the best cocktail snacks I've had.The chips, which were a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors appeared homemade. The waitress told me they were all potato, but they all had different flavors, from slightly sweet to salty to spicy. There were also slightly sticky sweet and salty almonds.

For a start, I ordered one of Master Bartender Roman Uhlíř's "Signature Cocktails," called a Mystic (160 CZK). It was vodka, lime, homemade ginger syrup, and brown sugar.It was quite sweet, with a hint of lime-like bitterness. I was disappointed the ginger flavor was not more obvious. The Mystic wasn't bad, but I'd prefer the similar, but rum-based Jamaica Mule served at Bukowski's.

Even though I'd already eaten earlier in the evening, I felt it was my duty to eat again. I had to try that peppered beef satay (260 CZK). I was impressed by the very tender, top quality meat.It was exactly the kind of beef a place like Essensia at the Mandarin Oriental should be using, rather than the chew toy they served on our recent visit. Cloud 9's beef, with its soy marinade, was just a tad too salty.

On the side, there was a sesame oil mayo. I wish there was a better accompaniment. I could hardly taste any sesame, and mayo is far from my first choice of beef condiment. That part just didn't work for me.

Still, I was enjoying it and was down to my last couple of bites when the waitress came to take my finished drink away. Unfortunately, she spilled the crushed ice from the glass all over the table and some into my lap.She apologized and cleaned up quickly as I cleared the ice from my chair and checked that my mobile phone survived. I didn't realize until she was gone that she had whisked away my unfinished bites of beef.

I didn't feel like complaining and asking for a replacement or discount over so little, but I wasn't terribly happy about losing some food, either.

For my second drink, I ordered the New Classic Margarita (250 CZK). The drink was made with 100% agave tequila, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, and agave syrup.The price was eye-popping, but I hoped it would buy me something special.

Thankfully, it was excellent. It suited my taste, not too sweet, just the right sourness level from the lime, and it clearly packed a smooth punch. I was only slightly disappointed it came in a fairly small martini glass.

To go with this drink, I ordered the tuna tartare (290 CZK). It looked small in the picture on the website, but I thought it was a reasonably generous portion.The tuna was sandwiched between very light crackers. I could taste wasabi and ginger mixed in. Really good. It said it came with avocado, and there was a dab of green stuff on each cracker. But I wouldn't have known it was avocado unless someone told me.

The menu mentioned tomato, but I didn't see or taste any. Perhaps it blended in too well with the red tuna. The wasabi cream on the side was pleasantly sharp and a little sweet, but I used it sparingly. The batter-fried onion strings on the side weren't bad, but very messy and awkward to eat.

While not perfect as a whole, the tuna itself was so nice, I thought it worth the money.

For my final cocktail, I ordered something called an Elise (160 CZK). As if it wasn't embarrassing enough, I had to repeat the name three times before the waitress understood what I was asking for. I'm still asking myself why I ordered this strange concoction.It is made with gin, limoncello, peach liqueur, mango, grapefruit juice, and orgeat syrup.

My initial thought was this cocktail would be too frou-frou. Then, I thought I shouldn't be so closed-minded. Essentially, I only ordered it because I love limoncello.

It was cloyingly sweet, but with the bitterness of grapefruit. I picked up a hint of mango, but I really couldn't taste the limoncello at all. The orgeat is supposed to give it an almond flavor, but I didn't notice it, either.

This drink might work for someone else, but I really didn't like it.

I ordered one more round of food and had the bruschetta with port-marinated duck foie gras and fig marmalade (290 CZK).The marmalade was extremely sweet, but it balanced out on top of the buttery, smooth, creamy liver. The bread was good quality, but could have been toasted (or better toasted).

It was simple, but a satisfying dessert of sorts. I know foie gras, even from ducks, isn't that cheap. True, it was a rich few bites. But the plate looked pretty empty, and it felt unsubstantial for the money.

I had a fairly favorable opinion of the bar during the first visit, but things got a little more hazy after the second.

On that one, they still had the nice almonds, but the chips had changed. These were all the same -- almost black in color and appeared overcooked.They didn't taste burnt, but didn't have the most pleasant flavor, either.

I decided another "signature" cocktail was in order. I got the Black Pearl (165 CZK).It was made with premium Vodka, Chambord, Grand Marnier, cranberry and fresh lime juice. It had a great color, with great blackberries and raspberries as garnish, but that's the best I could say about it.

It was just too sweet. I could taste the cranberry and chambord very clearly. But I missed any sense of tart balance from the lime or orange flavor from the Grand Marnier.

The food menu tempted me once again. The teriyaki duck in rice paper rolls were delivered to my table (240 CZK). These cool, tightly-wrapped rolls, had the right look and some heft to them.There was a chili sambal on the side that was very spicy, peppery, and slightly too salty.

What I found inside was disappointing. It was all very fresh, but sadly bland. I could barely detect any teriyaki flavor. The duck was so flavorless, it could have been chicken.

There was some crunch from the greens inside. The texture was right, but not the taste. There was no basil or cilantro (coriander), as far I could tell, which would have seriously helped.

Then I got a mojito (160 CZK). I've had many great ones at a number of different bars around Prague. This was not one of them.It was too sweet, and there was still a lot of undissolved sugar at the bottom. It did have plenty of mint, which was good. But again, the sour notes were really lacking. Not enough lime.

Finally, I continued my quest for something sublime with lime. I got a Gimlet (140 CZK).This is one of my favorite cocktails, but it was not sublime. It was subprime. It was super-pucker sour, tasting like pure lime juice and gin.

A classic Gimlet is made with Rose's lime juice, which is sweet. There was nothing sweet about this drink. And to top it off, it was a very ungenerous pour. The small martini glass was more than half-empty.

Cloud 9 Sky Bar & Lounge is not the type of place I usually like to hang out. It was pretty stylish, but the clientele does give it something of a hotel feel, however upscale.

It did have a good view, comfortable chairs, some enjoyable dishes with not completely insane prices. That's relative, of course.

My total bill for the first visit came to 1410 CZK, not including tip. If V was with me, it probably would have been closer to 2500 CZK. The second trip cost me 705 CZK.

If you'd have asked me after my first visit, I'd probably recommend the bar for a date and a few little bites to eat. But after the second visit, my opinion changed.

There were just not enough shining moments and too many dark clouds raining on my cocktail parade.

Cloud 9 Sky Bar & Lounge
Prague Hilton Hotel
Pobřežní 1
Prague 8
Tel. (+420) 224 842 999

Read the full post

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Bukowski's Bar

"I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there." Charles Bukowski
I was supposed to meet G-Man for a drink. He texted me that some of his Czech colleagues wanted to go out. And they wanted to hit their favorite cocktail bar.

So, we ended up at Bukowski's in Prague's Žižkov neighborhood.It was pretty empty at 8:00 pm on a Friday. We scored a table near the bar.It's a cozy drinking establishment with some interesting style points: fold-down chairs from a theater, a chandelier and other light fixtures made from bottles, and something a little unusual for a cocktail bar in this town -- carpeting.

There's a bigger main room in front and a small space in the back.That turned into a clubhouse for a couple of groups later in the evening.

For my first drink, I had my usual -- a gin gimlet. A pretty good version with a lime twist.G-Man's colleagues tried it and liked it enough that they were ordering them later in the evening.

Don't ask me what this drink or any other cost. Bukowski's has no website, the tab was written by hand at the end of the evening with drinks counted by hash marks, and I didn't look carefully at the menu. It's safe to assume the cocktails cost less than in the center.

I sampled G-Man's drink, something I'd never heard of before. It was a Jamaica Mule.It is made with rum, lime juice, ginger or ginger beer and sugar or syrup. He liked it. I thought it was tasty and interesting. I'd order it again.

Someone had a Cosmopolitan. A good version.The drink is still as popular as Sex and the City reruns on TV.

There was also some kind of chocolate-flavored martini on the table.I expected it to be completely horrible. That said, it wasn't that bad, perhaps benefiting from low expectations. There was just a very slight hint of chocolate to it. However, it is not something I'd ever order.

G-Man hadn't eaten, was really hungry and needed something to soak up the alcohol. However, Bukowski's has little food to speak of. Just some spicy nacho chips from a bag. We had three rounds of those.

By 9:30 pm, the place was really getting packed. I'd say it was mostly expats in the mid-20s to early 30s range.The cute waitresses still got to our table to take our orders. But the crush caused something of a meltdown behind the bar. Quality declined rapidly.

I ordered a mojito.It was the worst I've had in a long time. It had one positive aspect -- plenty of rum. Otherwise, it tasted like alcoholic ice water with a hint of lime. The sugar rested at the bottom, mostly unmixed.

Feeling tired, I ordered a Cuba Libre for a sugar and caffeine boost.Yes, it is a boring and simple drink. But I've enjoyed it more at places like Tretter's, where they juice it up with an extra infusion of lime. But Tretter's is often a crowded, yuppie meat-market, and I haven't been there for ages.

Bukowski's Cuba Libre had just a couple of squeezes of tiny lime slices and was little more than rum and slightly flat Coke.

G-Man ordered a Whisky Sour. I don't think I'd heard of anyone ordering this drink for 20 years. I don't know what a good one is supposed to taste like. If you like lots of whiskey and little sour, this is for you.

Someone ordered a Mai Tai.It was quite sweet. Sort of a Hawaiian Punch with rum.

Toward the end of the evening, we ordered a round of Gimlets for our table. We were sitting next to the bar, and the bartender asked me to pick them up, since the waitresses were so busy.

The drinks were in lowball glasses filled with ice cubes. I was confused.

"Are these Gimlets," I asked.

"We ran out of martini glasses so I had to put them in something else," he said.

"Why are they full of ice cubes?"

He just gave me a half-smile, a shrug, and turned to other pressing matters. At this point in the evening, the cocktail's finer points didn't seem all that important, anyway. Explaining the situation and relating the conversation did get a laugh back at the table.

Finally, even the waitresses started to snap under the strain. G-Man ordered a final Jamaica Mule and was very unhappy with it.

"This doesn't taste like a Jamaica Mule," he told the waitress.

"You ordered it!" she shouted above the din.

"Yeah, I know, I just wanted to be sure it was what I ordered."

She told him it was. He figured in the end that she was right, and that it was just poorly made.

Here's the thing about Bukowski's. It really did have a cool, lived-in neighborhood bar style. If you like hanging with expats with some Czechs mixed in, it could be a blast. There was a real house party atmosphere.

But if you go there on a packed out Friday night looking for precision mixologists who will consistently blend you the perfect cocktail, you're in the wrong kind of bar.

Bukowski's
Bořivojova 86
Prague 3-Žižkov
Tel. (+420) 774 530 689

View Larger Map

Read the full post

Friday, February 20, 2009

ZanziBar

Me, I'm just another face at Zanzibar
But the waitress always serves a secret smile
Billy Joel
We were wandering around Mala Strana, and V decided to reveal another one of her secret watering holes.

By secret, I mean I didn't know about this particular cocktail bar or that she'd been there many times.

Maybe it sounds strange, but I'd never heard of ZanziBar.I say strange because it has been around a long time, and it's an area I've walked through hundreds of times, near the Charles Bridge.

To be fair, it is tucked in an alley called Saská, and it is hard to see the sign, so it is easy to miss.

I'd think it could get very touristy because of the location. But on this weekend evening at 8:00 pm, it was almost empty.The few taken tables in the back were filled with Czechs.

I did see an unmanned DJ station, so I could imagine it could get a bit more lively later in the evening.

After a few minutes, a waitress came over and took our drink orders. I requested a Gimlet (130 CZK). I forgot to specify that I wanted the classic version with gin.

This one was vodka. It was very good, so I didn't bother to return it. At Buddha-Bar, when I ordered a Gimlet, the waiter immediately asked me, "Vodka or gin?"

A martini glass without a stem was placed in a little bowl full of crushed ice.On the one hand, sipping from this glass felt kind of ridiculous. On the other hand, it did keep the cocktail nicely cold.

Frou-frou but functional.

V got a Kir Imperial -- Creme de Framboise and champagne (120 CZK). It was not very good -- fairly flat and not cold enough.After we finished our first round, we sat waiting a long time for service. There were two waitresses sucking the straws on their own cocktails behind the bar.One was sharing the story of her recent engagement. Riveting stuff.

We were the only ones in this room, sitting in clear view of the bar. It was one of those mystical, mystifying Harry Potter-like moments.

We could see and hear them, but they couldn't see us.

V, the poor lamb, was overcome by thirst and began waving her arms back and forth over her head -- the internationally recognized distress signal.

Just then, the barman walked back into the room and alerted the waitresses. One came over. She looked unhappy that our cloak of invisibility had been lifted in the middle of her story.

She took our order with a sour look on her face. V explained politely that we had been waiting quite a while to order something else. This just seemed to annoy her.

While we were waiting for our order to be filled, two shots arrived at our table.

It was a gift from the bartender, who had saved us from our alcoholic exile and sought to make amends.

It was an unusual but tasty potion -- vodka, almond liqueur, and lime cordial, I believe. I liked it, but I do have quite a sweet tooth. I drank my shot and my spirit was filled with the warmth of forgiveness.

For my next drink, I decided to keep with the lime theme and tried the mojito (130 CZK).Very good. The price was fair, too. At La Bodeguita del Medio, they cost 169 CZK.

A problem with many mojitos in Prague (the town's most popular drink), including La Bodeguita's, is that they aren't mixed well. You get a big pile of brown sugar at the bottom of the glass, and the limes aren't well-squeezed. ZanziBar's was well-mixed.

V decided to have a glass of Czech white wine (45 CZK).Nothing special, but also a decent price, especially for a cocktail bar.

The bill for our four drinks came to 425 CZK. I liked my cocktails, and I liked the prices.

I'd like to go back some time at a later hour to see what the atmosphere is like and what kind of people this place pulls in.

I just won't expect a smile from the waitress -- secret or otherwise.

ZanziBar
Lázeňská 6
Prague 1 - Mala Strana
Tel. (+420) 257 530 762

View Larger Map

Read the full post

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Čili Bar (Chili Bar)

"If there is anything we wish to change in the child, we should first examine it and see whether it is not something that could better be changed in ourselves.” -Carl Gustav Jung
There are healthier ways to welcome a new child into the world.

But tradition is a stubborn thing.

And so it was that Captain Canuck invited his friends to an Old Town bar for booze and cigars.

I'd never heard of the venue before that night -- a cocktail lounge called Čili Bar.It's on Kožná, just off Old Town Square. Some people got confused and ended up on Kozi street, which is not far away.

You can see the gold-tipped spires of the Týn Church from the bar's doorway if you step outside for some air.I have to confess that in all my years in Prague, I'd never walked on this street. I'd looked down it and seen the shop selling suits of armor and swords.

I thought it was a street for tourists and kept walking. But I was missing out on an interesting little lane.

After you pass under the big pepper over the door, you will find that Čili Bar, itself, is small. There were just a couple of tables in the front.It had a lived-in, scuffed-up decor with loud, striped wallpaper.

There was one table in the back where a group of young, German-speaking ladies had settled in.There were a couple of big, comfortable leather chairs. And that's it.

It reminded me a bit of Hapu up in Žižkov. Nothing fancy or pretentious. The bartenders were cool and without attitude.

The bar is right by the front door and there was not much space, so when a few people were standing there, it was a little hard to get by them and walk in. Things got off to a hot start when I was handed Čili Bar's signature shot.

It was made with rum, a little sweet, but not very strong. Floating on the top were chopped red chilies that went through a blender.

Being no fool, I took an experimental little taste. Lips began to burn.

Then, I was set upon by the assembled well-wishers, urging me to down it in one gulp.

"It hurts less that way," someone said. Famous last words.

I tossed it back. And you know, it wasn't so bad. Just wash your hands before going to the rest room.

They had a couple of beers on tap from the Ferdinanda brewery, a light lager and a semi-dark called Sedm Kuli.

I've been trying to cut down on beer, so I ordered gimlet. I was a little surprised that the bartender hadn't heard of this cocktail before.

My friend said he'd ordered one from a different bartender on another evening without a problem.

The good news was that on this night, the bartender was very friendly and open to learning something new. He asked me what was in it, and said he'd make one.

Which wasn't hard, since a gimlet is just half gin and half Rose's lime juice shaken with ice. I don't think he had Rose's, so I told him to use lime juice and a little sugar syrup.

It was pretty good. And with a few suggestions, he got better and better at it as the evening progressed.

Or so it seemed.

At one point, someone ordered a round of what looked like Tequila Sunrises. I saw some red syrup go into the glasses of orange juice before they were handed out. I didn't have one of those.I should also mention that the aforementioned cigars were Cuban.

Romeo y Julietas from Havana. Very fresh.

And since the new daddy is Canadian, no embargoes were broken during the celebration of this birth.

As far as I know, anyway.

The man did throw a fine "birthday" bash.

And since he paid everyone's tab, I don't know what anything cost.

Nice.

But the size of his generosity is matched only by his hypocrisy. He actually gave me the following advice over the years.

1. Never get married
2. Never have a child
3. Never have a second child

Not only did he break all three of these rules, he didn't even wait a respectable period between their ill-timed issuance and brazen breakage.

While he is fully aware of his "do-as-I-say-not-as-I-do" attitude, he still maintains that the advice remains sound.

This all seems mildly amusing now.

And it will remain so until the day his sweet daughter comes home reeking of rum, a big Cuban, and red hot chili peppers.

In which case, he'll probably eschew the teachings of Jung and do what any good Freudian would do.

Blame mommy.

Čili Bar (Chili Bar)
Kožná 8
Prague 1 - Old town
Tel. (+420) 777 945 848


View Larger Map

Read the full post