Mood Restaurant

"The American mood, perhaps even the American character, has changed." Archibald MacLeish

If you're a native English speaker and you've lived in Prague for a long time, it can feel like a small village. If I don't know you, I bet I know someone you know.

This "One Degree of Separation" principle applies to expat American chef, Jeff Cohen. Our circles overlap slightly, and I've run into him a few times over the years.

Cohen was the opening chef and creator of the international menu at Artisan. It was well-regarded by many, including me. Then he worked in the kitchen at Kampa Group's Hergetova Cihelna. I had some very enjoyable meals there.

Now he's the head chef at the new Mood Restaurant. It's in the richly renovated boutique Hotel Voyage in Žižkov.

The good-looking building and brightly colored signage stand out on the otherwise rather dingy Koněvova street.

The interior has a pop art feel, with spare, modern furniture, more bright colors, and odd, eye-catching photos of toothy smiles on the walls.

I particularly liked wide-planked hard wood flooring. There is a rear dining area that is a little more woody when it comes to the chairs and tables than the front.

On the way there, you can take a look through a window into the brand new, ultra modern kitchen.

When the weather was warm, my favorite spot was the back terrace. You take in the greenery and watch the bikers, rollerbladers, and strollers gliding through the park under the Vitkov National Memorial.

On my first visit, I sat in front.

I drove my car since there is plenty of free, white line parking in front on weekends. Buses run near the restaurant, but it's a 10 minute walk to the nearest tram.

Because of the car, I was drinking water. They serve .25 liter bottles of Bonaqua (39 CZK). I wish they'd carry Mattoni instead.

I'd heard talk that burgers would be a specialty of this restaurant and I'd enjoyed Cohen's burger at Artisan. So, I ordered the Mood Classic Burger (215 CZK).

The thick patty, formed from a custom grind, sits on red and green lettuce, tomato, and red onion. On top rested two long, crispy slices of bacon.

There was no cheese, although this is available on the Jalapeno Cheddar Burger (235 CZK). I found out the toasted buns are custom-made for Mood at Bakeshop Praha.

I'll be frank, I think this is one of the top burgers in the Czech Republic. The top quality ground beef patty is hefty, wonderfully smoky from a lava grill, and just juicy enough, even though it was cooked almost well done (I asked for medium). The bun holds it all together like a champ.

The burger comes with little dishes of ketchup, mustard, and mayo. It always bugs me not to get a bottle of ketchup on the table. These small dishes never supply enough for both the burger and the fries. I wished the cool lettuce, tomato, and onion were on the top or the side, rather than under the hot meat.

These small details didn't put my love asunder. I have a very high opinion of the burger. For second point of view, I talked to a friend who also tried the Mood Classic Burger. He gave it a full on rave. He even went so far as to say that Mood's is better than the much-beloved burgers at The Tavern.

Do I agree? I'm going to wait until my end of the year burger ranking list to reveal my final decision on that.

On my second trip, I was on the terrace.

I began with a glass of homemade ice tea (60 CZK). It was lightly sweet and quite tart, with plenty of lime as well as fresh mint leaves. It was refreshing.

I tried a bowl of gazpacho (45 CZK). The tomato stood out, and there was a balance of salty and sour.

I wished for more flavor from other vegetables like cucumber. I also prefer a thicker texture like the gazpacho I had recently at La Terrassa.

I realize there are many ways to make this cold soup. This one was on the thin side. I'd point out that the gazpacho photo on Mood's website shows a soup that appears quite thicker.

Then I had the pineapple-soy marinated rib eye (365 CZK). This was a quality, very tender piece of beef.

Rib eyes are usually so tasty and easy to cut because they are also relatively fatty, so be prepared for that. I did ask for medium-rare, and it was cooked past that point.

Although I never met Cohen in Atlanta, I found out he was a chef at my favorite steak house, Houston's, at the same time I lived there. He told me this steak is modeled on their "Hawaiian," which I ordered regularly.

That one had a charred, sweet-salty, teriyaki-like crust on it from the marinade. The Mood version is saltier and dominated by the soy sauce, rather than pineapple juice. I assumed this was something of a concession to local tastes.

The green beans were fine -- hot but still crunchy and topped with chopped bacon. The mashed potatoes were creamy, buttery, and lovely. The lightly sweet and salty demi-glace sauce on the side was truly excellent. It was plate-licking good.

Although full, I felt it my duty to try a dessert. I ordered the bread pudding (110 CZK). This is one of the most decadent sweets you'll find around these parts.

The warm eggy bread was studded with pieces of chocolate. Then it was coated with quality caramel sauce, not the nasty, artificial kind.

If that were not enough, there was a homemade toasted marshmallow on the side. It was briefly flambéed and tasted like it just came off a stick over a campfire. Amazing.

On the third visit, I finally had a beer. They serve Pilsner Urquell on tap, but only in .33 liter glasses (39 CZK).

They also have tapped Krušovice Černé and non-alcoholic Bernard. My Italian companion had a fruity, dry .2 liter glass of Sauvignon (88 CZK).

I had the buffalo wings (95 CZK). They had a crispy skin, with tender, juicy meat underneath.

One can choose mild, medium, or hot. I chose medium, but they were so mild, I wished I went for maximum heat. There was a cheesy blue cheese sauce on the side with celery sticks. I wished for carrot sticks in there, too.

My date had the mussels (195 CZK).

We both thought the mollusks were not of the highest quality, some with a rubbery texture, some tasting less fresh than others. Hopefully that was a one-time problem or a sourcing issue.

I hope that gets fixed, because the sauce that went with these mussels was crazy good. It was one of the most buttery I can remember, so if you're on a diet, forget it. Also it had an almost lemon-like tartness that comes from reducing the serious amounts of white wine. I was soaking it up with bread, but had to stop because it was too rich for me.

For myself, I had the club sandwich (195 CZK).

It looks nice, but it didn't work for me. Double-decked white toast was layered with tomato, rucola, avocado, red onion, smoked turkey, and mayo.

You don't see it in the photo, but there was an overwhelming amount of very strong, raw, sliced onion. I picked a lot out, but since it mixed with the mayo, it was hard to get it all without a majorly messy operation. That said, I'm sure they'll make it without onions on request.

That wasn't the only issue. The smoked turkey breast, although quite smoky, tasted like the rubbery and insubstantial supermarket variety.

Although there is no law saying a club sandwich should have bacon, I'm one of those people who think there should be.

Good curly fries, though.

I had to go back one more time for no other reason than there were still several items on the menu that piqued my curiosity.

I started off with the tomato tartare (145 CZK). This I liked.

It had a healthy hit of basil and lime juice, which worked well to bring up the flavor of the tomato. There was a hint of shallot. On top were crunchy green beans mixed with cream and vinegar.

Last but not least, I went for the barbecued ribs (185 CZK). These were real baby backs and they were cooked just right.

The tender, silky pork peels off the little bones. No knife or fork required. You do get a water bowl with lemon on the table for washing up.

The ribs were coated with a thick, sweet sauce. It's an imported variety that Cohen jazzes up with molasses, brown sugar, and sambal chili sauce for a mild kick. Some might find the sauce too sweet or too generously applied. I didn't.

These small but satisfying racks come with coleslaw that, unlike some American versions, was on the savory side. That's a good thing, given the sweetness of the meat.

Since Cohen knows me, I did my best to sneak into the restaurant unnoticed. He often walks the floor of the dining rooms, so he usually found me half-way through the meals. I did take the opportunity to ask him detailed questions about what went into many dishes.

I had different waiters on two of the four visits. Service was always quite good. I leave it to others to judge whether I had a different experiences than regular guests.

Burgers, ribs, club sandwiches, wings, and rib eyes are available in many places around Prague. But a lot of the "American" food tastes decidedly un-American. Mood has an American-style menu designed by an American chef. And it tastes like it.

Of course, I wish every dish was a home run, especially with offerings that remind me of home. But more than enough of the food hit me in my strike zone -- especially that burger.

I'm sure I'm going to be in the mood for Mood again soon.

Mood Cafe - Bar - Restaurant
Koněvova 28/29
Prague 3 - Žižkov
Tel. (+420) 222 517 615

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Cowboys

"Don't interfere with something that ain't bothering you none." Cowboy Proverb

Years ago, just after it opened, I went to Cowboys a couple of times for steak and cocktails. The Kampa Group restaurant, on Nerudova below Prague Castle, left me unimpressed.I thought the food was just OK, the service was weak, and the prices were high. The negatives were somewhat offset by the great terrace.

In other words, not terrible, but not value for money.

I never went back until last week. My soon-to-be-departed friend, Flash, invited me to join him there for dinner. Though dubious, I didn't question his choice. He's been a good friend, illuminating my world on everything from African authors to how to communicate with women.

The reason for his choice? He had a 500 CZK coupon.

We walked in through the street-level passage to the reception desk.Despite the threatening weather, we wanted to go to the roof terrace. We told the greeter girl that we knew the way.

It was only 6:30 p.m., but the main restaurant was empty.It's a nice looking space, a little dark, but atmospheric, with vaulted brick ceilings and cowhide seating.It was also empty there when we left, but perhaps that could be ascribed to the deluge of rain that poured down later.

The terrace is one of the nicer ones in the city, with a view that includes Malá Strana's St. Nicholas church (just out of frame).Many of the tables have canopy-like umbrellas to ward off the rain. But there is also a stylish, two-level wooden structure for greater shelter and warmth.Flash ordered a .3 liter glass of Pilsner Urquell (55 CZK). I had a Mojito (165 CZK).Both glasses were small for the price. His beer was fine. The cocktail was both intensely sour and sweet, but still drinkable.

Homemade focaccia style bread was chewy and satisfying (but on a second visit, it was hard and stale).It was soaking in olive oil in the bowl. I would have preferred to pour it myself.

I got the grilled octopus starter (365 CZK). There was one long, meaty tentacle on top of eggplant "caviar" and underneath rucola.The octopus did not have much flavor from the grill, but was very tender and tasty. It had a tangy flavor from a marinade.

The pesto, with the strong essence of basil, was balanced well by the more neutral eggplant. I liked it, but I much prefer the more generous and much cheaper octopus at Giardino - enoteca con cucina.

For his dinner, Flash got the charbroiled Cowboys sirloin burger (345 CZK). It comes with good bacon, melted cheese, chopped pickles, tomato slices, and mixed, leafy lettuce.Flash pronounced it a "damn good burger" and complimented the large American-style bun. The salty meat had a good texture, it wasn't over-seasoned and had the right charbroiled flavor.

It came with excellent, crispy, homemade French fries.We liked just about everything about this burger and fries except the price. But with his coupon, Flash wasn't too bothered.

I went for the 250 gram rib eye (375 CZK). Everything with the steak was extra. I also had the mashed potatoes with spring onions (45 CZK) and the red wine sauce (25 CZK).On the plus side, it had a wonderful flavor from the flame grill. However, the meat itself did not make for easy cutting.

The menu says the cut is "the most marbled for more flavor." But marbled meat should also be tender. This one wasn't, and there was also a vein of very tough gristle though the middle. The beef was cooked medium-rare, as requested.It didn't say where this meat was sourced from, but it was not nearly as good as the North or South American cuts I've tried elsewhere in Prague.

The chunky mashed potatoes reminded me of the potato hash you sometimes get with breakfast at a New York diner. They just needed more salt. The sauce on the side was sweet, and tasted like red wine barbecue sauce, and I'd understand if that doesn't sound appealing, but I loved it.

If you didn't do the math, the whole plate, with sauce and potatoes cost 445 CZK.

I couldn't resist ordering a chocolate fondant for dessert (215 CZK). It was baked to order and came straight from the oven to the table.I'd rate this one as average. There was too much sugar, which gave the exterior a sticky, crunchy texture. The chocolate was good, but more cocoa intensity would be better. Vanilla ice cream around Prague almost always falls short for me, and this one was no exception.

The meal for two costs 1755 CZK before tip.

I felt the need to return one more time, so I came back the next evening. The downstairs restaurant was empty again.The buildings on the terrace had about 12 tables occupied, upstairs and downstairs, mostly by couples.It seemed like date night and, indeed, the room had a romantic feel.

I ordered a Sea Breeze (165 CZK).It was heavy on the grapefruit and very sour. It needed more cranberry juice.

On this visit, I started with the goat cheese salad (245 CZK). I'd say this is one of the best versions I've had in a long time.The cheese itself was a perfect thickness, heated all the way through, but maintaining a light, ethereal quality. I thought that putting it on top of a piece of date bread was a masterful idea. The sweet, cake-like bread and the salty-tangy cheese went so naturally together.

The rucola was heavily dressed with balsamic vinegar, but I thought that worked well in the mix. There was also what I believe were roasted pumpkin seeds (though not mentioned on the menu description). The strawberry was a good addition, but there was just one, sliced into five pieces. One more berry would have sufficed.

Finally, I got my main course, the pork ribs (285 CZK). This seemed like the biggest bargain on the menu. It came with corn on the cob, and a baked potato with sour cream.The menu said it was supposed to come with barbecue sauce, but I got a serving of tomato salsa. I asked the waiter for the right sauce and received it quickly.

But that wasn't the only thing wrong with dish. Some of the ribs, which had very little sauce on the exterior, were very fatty. Overall, they were just boring and ordinary. I pulled off pieces pork and dipped them in the bottled, hickory-flavored sauce. That was OK, but I expected something more exceptional. I didn't finish them.

The side items were disasters. The corn had a char on it from the grill. But I took one bite and found them watery, mushy, and tasteless. The potato had decent flavor, except that it was served at room temperature. There was no heat in it at all.

In my long ago visits, I had problems with the service, and I've seen some complaints about it online. That said, the service on both my visits was top notch. It was efficient, friendly, and occasionally charming.

On my second visit, a tall, young, and good-looking waiter was so nice and helpful to a couple of attractive Danish girls sitting near me, they invited him to go clubbing (he politely declined, citing the need to finish his shift).

So, after all these years, has Cowboys or my opinion of it changed? The answer is yes, but not much.

There were some bright spots. I liked the food a little more. It's not the worst choice a visitor could make while being herded down the tourist trail.The people dining with me on the great terrace seemed to be enjoying themselves, the atmosphere, and the view. I wouldn't want to interfere with that.

But my biggest issue with Cowboys is the same as it ever was. Great location and view aside, if you really care about value for money, I wouldn't bother.

Cowboys
Nerudova 40
Prague 1 - Malá Strana
Tel. (+420) 296 826 107

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Café Bar Wigwam

“While living I want to live well.” Geronimo

Every week for years, I've been going to the same restaurant/pub in Malá strana to meet a group of friends. While it is far from perfect, Café Bar Wigwam fills the most of my group's requirements of all the establishments in the area.It serves Budvar, which is 32 CZK for a half-liter of 10° and 35 CZK for 12°.This is acceptable and agreeable for those with prohibitions against Staropramen beers.

The place also keeps relatively late hours -- it is open until 1 a.m. every night but Sunday.And it has a non-standard pub menu, serving what I call Czech International Interpretative.

For a long time, the interior design was devoted to essentially Central and South American Indian culture or perhaps even African, rather than that which relates to the type of Indians who lived in actual wigwams.Quite amusing. But this changed after a recent interior update that saw the addition of some North American Indian photos, along with heavier chairs and tables. I like the way the place looks.Sometimes every table is taken. Sometimes the place is sparsely populated. I once asked the barman why it was so full on some weeks and not others.

"I have no idea," he said. "If you find out, let me know."

What is certain is that if the restaurant is full, smoke will get in your eyes. The place is not too well ventilated and the clouds really hang in the air, especially in winter. The eclectic classic rock/disco they always play can get a little tiresome after you've heard it a few times.

The most ordered meal among all my friends is some variation of the hamburger. They recently started offering the jalapeno burger, which everyone gets (135 CZK). It comes with steak fries.Now if you read my review of the hamburgers I've eaten in in Prague, you'd know I have a love-hate relationship with this one. Currently, I'm in a hate phase. The meat is always cooked completely through, it is crumbly, it has an odd seasoning I can't quite place, and the bun is small and disintegrates.

The fries are large and look good, but they have a somewhat chewy rather than crispy texture. The jalapenos themselves are the best part -- whole sliced peppers across the top. Just keep in mind that all my friends keep ordering it every week and think I'm too hard on the poor burger.

Oddly, on a number of weeks, they have run out of them. They also do a chicken burger, which is just OK (125 CZK).But I suggest you avoid the pork neck burger (125 CZK). It comes with Niva cheese and Dijon dressing, a combination I find quite awful.

So, I've been trying a number of other dishes. Recently, I had the pork ribs (125 CZK).These were fairly tired and dried out, but not past the point of acceptability. There was a sweet, tangy sauce, and it came with a baguette. I'd rank them pretty low on my Prague rib scale. That said, I'd probably get them again over the burger.

One of the favorites among my group is the Mat Saman Curry (145 CZK).This is an approximation of red curry chicken. It's nothing like an authentic recipe, but it is one of the best things they do. The coconut milk sauce is very thick and on the sweet side. Green and red peppers are mixed in along with onions. The portion is large and comes with a big plate of rice.

Curiosity got the better of me and I ordered a recent addition to the menu, the chicken yakitori (145 CZK). I could see no evidence it was grilled over a fire.It was much more like a Czech version of Chicken Satay, served on popsicle sticks. The tender meat tasted of coconut and fresh ginger. The sauce was basically Thai chili sauce mixed with ketchup. So, yeah, it's not real ethnic cuisine, but then again, I prefer it over typical Czech pub grub. Once a week, anyway.

One of the biggest losers on the menu is the fried chicken in a tortilla (130 CZK).I suppose it resembles a KFC Twister, but those are much better. The chicken was overcooked, and all the fried coating fell off and mixed with the iceberg lettuce in the tortilla.It was a mess and did not taste good.

The penne with mushroom, olive, chicken, and Parmesan is a better choice (95 CZK).The sauce could be creamier, but it does have a nice mushroom flavor, and they are generous with the shaved Parmesan.

To sum up, Wigwam is a decent place to go for a generally young crowd, inconsistent, quirky, occasionally decent food, and quite good prices. The staff is very friendly -- once they get to know you.

And they serve my current drink of choice, hruškovice (45 CZK) or pear brandy, in chilled shot glasses.

When I'm out with my friends, I don't need much more to live well.

Café Bar Wigwam
Zborovská 54
Prague 5 - Malá strana
Tel. (+420) 257 311 707

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