Room Tapas Bar

“Do not spoil what you have by desiring what you have not. Remember that what you now have was once among the things you only hoped for." Epicurus

A few weeks ago, I was dreaming of sitting by the river, eating tapas in the open air at La Terrassa, and then walking the short distance to Jazz Dock to catch a show.

That dream was temporarily washed away by this spring's floods, which damaged both riverside businesses. It's not completely clear when they will reopen, but La Terrassa is aiming for the end of June and Jazz Dock hopes to be back in business in mid-July.

What to do in the meantime?

Prague is not exactly overflowing with top tapas choices. When you are hungering for some small interesting dishes that won't drain your bank account, Room Tapas Bar near Wenceslas Square is an option worth considering. It is part of The Icon Hotel and Lounge.

Entering from the street takes you to the modern, brightly-colored, brightly-lit front dining area, which was non-smoking. A number of menu items were written on the wall by the bar.

There were blond-wood veneer tables, black plastic chairs, and electric green banquettes. I'm not sure what to call this type of modernism, but it clashed too much for my taste.

The back room was cooler-looking, with a lounge vibe and an eclectic mix of comfortable furniture, including bed-like seating. The music varied between electronic and what sounded like some type of flamenco.

This was the smoking area, so I never sat there.

I've visited four times this year and had many of their offerings. They often start you off with a free taste of something.

On one visit, it was what they call Spanish omelet, also known as tortilla de patata.

The thinly sliced potato was very fresh with sweet fried onion mixed in. It was topped with a garlicky aioli.

On another visit, we received pitted black and green olives.

I really liked the red sangria. You can order a 1 liter pitcher (230 CZ) or a half-liter jar (140 CZK).

It's sweet, but not too sweet, with tangy citrus and cinnamon notes. The menu says it includes strawberry liqueur, triple sec, and brandy. It does have a complexity to it.

My overall favorite dish was the grilled octopus (170 CZK). The tentacle was charred and crispy on the outside and so tender on the inside.

It was paired with raw, lightly lemony fava beans mixed with parsley, making for an interesting contrast. I loved it so much on the first visit, I got a double order on my second visit.

Less successful, was the octopus vinaigrette the octopus vinaigrette (65 CZK).

The octopus, mixed with red and yellow peppers, was chewier. The vinaigrette was just too sour for me.

I enjoyed the black rice with squid (70 CZK).

Served in a cast iron pan, the squid was tender and the al dente rice had a wonderfully buttery flavor that was complemented by a squeeze of the accompanying lemon.

Good quality, freshly-fried calamari is hard to find in Prague. They have it at Room (150 CZK), and it can be great.

But I had it twice and it was not consistently done. The first time I had it, the squid was quickly fried and perfectly tender. I thought it was amazing. The second time, the calamari was still good, but more chewy than the first try. I thought it was a reasonably-sized portion for the price. Served with garlic aioli, lemon, and salt,

The mushroom and sausage in red wine sauce (100 CZK) was an interesting combination.

The tasty sauce and blander mushrooms balanced out the salty, chorizo-like sausage.

On one visit, we tried the white sangria, which has the same prices as the red. This one was also refreshing and not too sweet.

The menu said it was made with white wine, vodka, vanilla sugar, fresh limes and lemon, strawberries, grapes, mint, cinnamon, cloves, lemonade. I didn't see strawberries in this one, but cucumber slices made an unannounced appearance. I liked it just as much as the red, if not more.

I can recommend the Argentinian entrecote with green pepper sauce (350 CZK).

The 250 gram steak was so easy to slice, so easy to eat, especially with the creamy sauce that complemented it. After chewing hard on so many tough cuts of beef this year, this one was a tender pleasure. It was cooked exactly medium rare, as requested. It had a streak of fat through the middle as rib eyes do, which adds to the flavor.

If you don't want a steak, the marinated beef skewer (170 CZK) is a good way to go.

The meat was also tender, but it had more char flavor from the grill. The chunks hung above a small salad of chickpeas and fava beans.

We sampled a number of desserts. The one I looked forward to the most did not meet my high expectations. Room is one of the few places in Prague to offer churros (55 CZK).

The five fried, pieces of dough were crispy, but not quite crisp enough on the outside, and there was too much gooey, unfried batter on the inside. Oddly, they were topped with cane sugar that, for the most part, did not stick to the churros. On the positive side, it came with seriously amazing dulce de leche, rather than the chocolate sauce stated on the menu.

A better option was their freshly-made pancake filled with the same dulce de leche.

The top had a coating of burnt sugar, giving it creme brulee-like taste. Do you self a favor. Try it.

The last dessert I tried was the orange flan (55 CZK).

The custard had a very light orange syrup over the top. I liked that it didn't have too much sugar in it. This was another good way to end a meal of dulce de leche is not your speed.

The service was friendly and efficient, except for a couple of moments when our waiter on one visit disappeared for a fair amount of time. If you are lucky, you will be attended to by an Argentinian gentleman named Juan, who is one of the more friendly and charming servers you'll come across in this city. He told me they are planning a further expansion of their menu.

People can argue about the definition of tapas and whether these dishes qualify. They can take issue with whether the tapas is more Argentinian or Spanish.

I don't care much about all that. I just want to enjoy well-executed cooking and feel well-taken care of.

And I think Room Tapas Bar is serving some of the tastier little plates you'll find in Prague right now.

Room Tapas Bar
V jámě 6
Prague 1
Tel., (+420) 221 634 100

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La Terrassa

"We cannot all do great things, but we can do small things with great love." Mother Theresa

Ever since my trip to Barcelona last year, I've been dreaming about the tapas.

I had joyful, unforgettable meals at places like Tapas24, Bar Mut, and La Cova Fumada. I've tried tapas in Prague over the years, but I never found anything that kept me coming back for more.

When I got the tip that a real Spanish tapas place had opened, I got there as quick as I could. La Terrassa has a great location on the Vlatava, straddling the pointy end of Dětský ostrov (Children's Island).

The restaurant is opposite the Dancing House, also known as Fred and Ginger.

I took the tram 10 to Zborovska and walked about 10 minutes to get there. One could also take a tram to Arbesovo náměstí, which is about the same distance away.

There are several options on where to sit. One is an attractive indoor space with blond wood floors, rough stone walls and hanging hams that convey both a modern and rustic feeling.

Taking up one side of this room is the open kitchen. There you can watch chef de cuisine David Diaz at work.

He's got a serious CV, having worked at Michelin-starred and the Ferrán Adrià-connected Telaia Mar in Barcelona.

We ate here on the first visit and enjoyed watching the cooking show.

First off, we received bread (35 CZK).

It has a fresh and fluffy interior surrounded by a floury, crunchy crust. Great stuff.

One of our favorite bites in Barcelona was also one of the most simple: the pan con tomate -- bread with tomato. We ordered  that, hoping to be carried back to Catalonia (45 CZK).

There is more than one way to make this, but this was not my favorite way. This one was done with a tomato puree, olive oil, and garlic on small slices of toast. Unfortunately, bread was soaked through and soggy. We also thought it was too garlicky.

I much prefer the version we had many times in Barcelona. It was made on a special bread that looks like this. Pieces of tomato and garlic are lightly rubbed into the rough texture of one side and it was drizzled with olive oil. I had pan con tomate recently at Jaleo in Washington DC and they actually imported this bread from Barcelona. I wish they could do that here.

To drink, we ordered glasses N.V. Paul Cheneau Cava Rosé (95 CZK).

We liked its strawberry notes so much, we kept the whole freshly opened bottle (535 CZK). We also had a large bottle of Mattoni mineral water (65 CZK).

We got a plate of mussels (125 CZK).

They were fresh and meaty and coated with a lightly sweet, red peppery sauce that we both liked.

We tried the Galician octopus (235 CZK). With this preparation, the octopus is boiled and then seasoned with paprika, salt and olive oil.

The flesh was tender, but the flavor not so remarkable. What was remarkable was the big price for this small plate. We didn't think it was worth the splurge.

On the other hand, we both greatly enjoyed the Jamon Iberico de bellota (145 CZK).

It was freshly carved, tender, and not too salty.

My Italian companion eats grilled vegetables any chance she gets. We ordered two plates (65 CZK each).

Though small, the veggies were done just right, with a lovely char on them. There was zucchini, asparagus, mushrooms, aubergine, and tomato.

We decided to sample the larger meat and fish dishes. I had the Galician beef (450 CZK).

The thick, tender piece of quality meat was served rare. It was simply prepared with salt and olive oil. It didn't pick up much flavor from the grill.

My date got the sea bass with fennel sauce (390 CZK).

This was a great piece of fish, with a crispy skin on top and moist, delicate flesh below. The sauce worked well, even though the fennel flavor did not come through clearly.

I noticed the sea bass was not on the Internet menu as I was writing this and some of the prices have changed. They did tell me on one visit that the restaurant is new and the menu is still evolving.

For dessert, I was in the mood for chocolate, but there was no chocolate on the menu. I mentioned this to the server and was told they did have chocolate cake (75 CZK).

This one was fudgey, spongy and rich, with fresh but somewhat sour strawberries between the layers and on the side. I liked it.

Our server was really nice and always smiling, though sometimes confused by the many different plates coming and going. We did see our veggies under the heat lamp for much too long. Also, it's normal to see chefs sample their work, but we were a little surprised to see several chefs eating what looked like full meals as they cooked.

The tab for this outing, which included a bottle of cava, came to 2185 CZK before tip. While there were some misfires, we liked enough of what we tried, plus the vibrant atmosphere, to look forward to a second visit.

We returned a few days later and sat in the second dining area, which looks and feels like the inside of a wooden ship.

The blue and cream cloth between the beams in the ceiling, the wooden floors, the many windows, and the white tables give it a light, airy atmosphere.

The two dining rooms are non-smoking, but smoking is allowed on the outside terrace that covers the end of the island.

From here, you can get unobstructed views of the river and the National Theater.

We ordered another bottle of the cava we had on the first visit.

The waiter gave us a dish of seriously tiny olives.

Then, I had the Gazpacho Andaluz, which is served in a wine glass (90 CZK). I drank up and was cheered up.

The light, tangy soup had just the right balance of salt and vinegar, with a little meatiness from tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers.

Then came another tapas classic, the tortilla de patatas (65 CZK). This was perfectly executed.

The light mix of eggs, potatoes, and onions was served steaming hot and it tasted freshly made.

We had to taste the baked tiger prawns with garlic and chili (145 CZK). Delicately delicious.

They varied in size from medium to small. After peeling off they shells, they quickly disappeared. I ended up sucking on the heads and mopping up every drop of the sauce with their nice bread.

For a main course, I had the lamb chops (295 CZK).

I told the waiter I wanted them medium rare, and he duly wrote it down, though I'm not sure why. These were the thinnest lamb chops I've ever had. They were cooked through and I couldn't imagine them otherwise.

That said, I enjoyed them. There wasn't a large amount of meat, but it was very lamby and tasty. As I consumed it, fat and all, I thought of it as something akin to lamb bacon. The aubergine puree, made with apples and wine grapes was a complement deserving of the highest compliments. It raised the plate to a higher level.

To go with it, I had the baked potatoes (45 CZK).

We both loved these golden, starchy little spuds.

My date had the dorade or sea bream (360 CZK).

The fish was fresh, but incredibly bony. We couldn't pick them out easily and half the bites yielded an unpleasant mouthful. Perhaps it was bad luck, but it turned us both off this dish.

She had the Mediterranean salad on the side (90 CZK).

Although it had a nice mix of leaves, it was very simple, underdressed, and overpriced.

For dessert, I went for the Crema Catalana Cremada (85 CZK).

It looks similar, but it's quite different from crème brûlée. This version had a hint of cinnamon. The cream was not smooth, but had a texture I'd say was similar to apple sauce. The top layer was burnt, but not hard.

The bill for this meal was 1950 CZK before tip.

Did we like everything we tried? No.

Would I go back to La Terrassa. Yes. There a number of dishes I'd have again. And again.

The style, look, and location also left us with a good feeling. The service, though not flawless, was friendly and accommodating.

I didn't consider all things great, but enough of the small plates were done with great love.

La Terrassa
Janáčkovo nábřeží - Dětský ostrov
Prague 5 - Smíchov
Tel: (+420) 604 300 300

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Kofein Restaurant

"Consider the public. Never fear it nor despise it. Coax it, charm it, interest it, stimulate it, shock it now and then if you must, make it laugh, make it cry, but above all never, never, never bore the living hell out of it." Noel Coward

I crave the new. I hunger for the different. I have a taste for change.

That is why the concept of tapas is great for me. Lots of little plates keep me entertained. I recently had a magnificent culinary tapas tour in Barcelona and posted many photos on my Facebook page.

When a friend told me a new "tapas" place opened in Vinohrady, I was eager to check it out. Kofein Restaurant is in a small space below street level near Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station.As soon as I opened the door and looked down, I liked what I saw. Jamón Ibérico sat on the bar and behind that was a cooking station with two chefs.The open kitchen reminded me vaguely of my terrific meal at Tapas 24 in Barcelona.

But Kofein is actually more stylish than that top quality but no-frills place, with carved-back chairs, brick walls, and blue ceilings.It's a small restaurant with just a few places in the front. There are only about six tables in the back. The whole restaurant is non-smoking.While there are a number of Spanish-style tapas dishes on the menu like marinated olives and cheese, the menu does have a broader culinary scope. That's not to say that the dishes are complex or ambitious. Some are fairly simple.

The super-friendly owner, Jara, apologized that the menu was not available in English at the time -- they'd only been open a couple of weeks. I told him it wasn't a problem for me. He helpfully answered some questions.

A woman near me was uncomfortable sitting on the wood bench that runs along the wall. Jara improvised a bit and immediately brought a soft blanket over for her to sit on.

I started out with a beer. They have Pilsner Urquell, which I like, but I'm bored with. So I got their other beer on tap, Ježek 11 degree lager (28 CZK/half-liter).It was tasty and fresh.

They do charge for a basket of bread (20 CZK).It was an uninspiring basket of whole-wheat baguette slices, not unlike those found at any supermarket.

On this solo visit, I ordered five different dishes. Jara was a little concerned it might be too much for one person, but I assured him I could handle it.

First up, I had the Chorizo Ibérico with apple compote (65 CZK).This was very straightforward with cold chunks of mild red sausage in a bowl with stewed apple slices. I do love sweet and salty combinations and this was pleasant, though nothing to write home about.

I tried the mild homemade chicken liver pâté with caramelized onions (55 CZK).The chopped liver was very smooth and light, almost duck liver-like. In fact, I really didn't get the strong chicken flavor found in the more coarsely chopped version at Osteria da Clara.

The onions were very sweet. I thought they'd be better with a little tartness in the mix. It came with two small triangles of white toast.

Another cold dish was the seared beef salad with shaved Parmesan (65 CZK).The menu said it came with rucola, but it was really mostly red and green leaf lettuce. It also said the cut was tenderloin, but I found it on the chewy side. I squeezed the lime slices over it and despite these quibbles, I enjoyed it.

I sampled the baked goat cheese (55 CZK).The two small rounds were heated to the right consistency and topped with a walnut paste. Here the salty flavors and creamy textures mixed well with the honey dressing on the salad.

From the warm side of the tapas menu, I tasted the beef tenderloin pieces with spicy vegetables (75 CZK).In this dish, the flavorful beef was much more tender. It was covered with a sauce that had soft red and green peppers. I was disappointed that the sauce was not spicy (pikantní) at all.

After these plates, I still had room for dessert. I went for the coffee panna cotta (70 CZK).The dense cylinder was small, but it packed a serious coffee punch. Although a little rubbery in consistency, I loved the intensity.

Tiny spoonfuls could hold their own mixed with the excellent vanilla cream. Topping it all was delightful candied walnuts. I loved the dessert. It was definitely the most memorable dish of the dinner.

I was stuffed. The bill for this large meal of small plates was 461 CZK.

On the next visit, I took a friend. I had Ježek and we also ordered a glass of decent white wine (33 CZK/.1 liter) and a bottle of Mattoni mineral water (33 CZK).Later, I looked over their limited cocktail list and tried a Mojito (86 CZK).It was not well-mixed, more limey than minty, with a layer of sugar on the bottom. I stirred it up and it was better.

First, we tried the fennel salad (85 CZK).This consisted of red and green lettuce with a few rucola leaves. The fennel was marinated into a seriously sweet state. It was almost candy-like. I can't say it appealed to me.

We shared the baked eggplant (65 CZK), which was much like a typical eggplant Parmesan dish.The cheese, which hardened as it cooled, was baked over the top. Underneath were firm eggplant chunks mixed with tomato sauce and a bit of creamy cheese. It was elementary but enjoyable.

My friend tried the duck breast (255 CZK).It was ordered medium rare, so when it came out at least medium, we mentioned it to Jara. He was very apologetic and offered a glass of wine as compensation, which was accepted.

The duck itself was tender and flavorful. It came with a sweet wine reduction sauce that reminded me of Crema di Balsamico. There was creamy but thin purée of sweet potatoes. Although this was from the "Big Specialty" side of the menu, I thought it could have been more substantial for the price.

They have burgers on the menu (125 CZK). One is for vegetarians and made with a Portobello mushroom. The other is made with ground beef. That's what I had. This one is not a conventional, American-style version.One thing that makes it un-American is that it is not excessively large. That's not necessarily a bad thing, and it is reflected in the bargain price.

Another is that it served on a grilled ciabatta. I have made burgers at home on them, so I won't get pedantic about buns. Under the lid, there are grilled onions, soft bacon, cheese, shredded lettuce, and a tomato-mayo mixture.

But the foundation of a good burger is the meat. And I can say this was a particularly good patty of quality ground beef. It had a lovely charred crust and it was still juicy though over-cooked for my taste. On a second visit, they cooked it medium on request.

On the side were the best homemade steak fries I've had in Prague. Although they were greasy, they had a great crispy crunch that is hard to achieve when preparing and frying them yourself. An Irish friend actually thought they were too crispy.

Also on the plate was a dish of sweet red chili sauce with a dollop of mayo in the middle. It was an odd combo, but I didn't mind the change of pace.

I was really looking forward to trying the desserts again. This time, I had the chocolate cake (70 CZK).Sweet cream rested between and on top of two small rectangles of dense, intense chocolate sponge. Minced fresh mint leaves sat on the top corner. On the side was a sweet/sour smear of raspberry with seeds. I liked it all.

On another visit, I had the Crema Catalana (70 CZK). The not-very-deep dish was filled with orange-infused, slightly eggy cream.It was not as creamy as the crème brûlée I had at Krystal Mozaika Bistro. It did have a perfect layer of hard, caramelized sugar on top, along with whole slices of candied orange.

Overall, I liked this restaurant. With a few exceptions, I can't say the cooking really soared. Some was just competent and/or basic. Occasional service misfires were easily redeemed by the extremely friendly attitude and smiles.

I appreciated the warmth, style and the variety that is on offer at Kofein. You don't have to spend a fortune to eat some decent and different food. It would definitely be a place I'd meet a friend for a drink and a snack. Or a burger and dessert. Or two.

The restaurant deserves credit for bringing something new and different to the neighborhood and putting heart into it.

Kofein did not bore me. In fact, I found it quite stimulating. I think you might, too.

Kofein Restaurant
Nitranská 9
Prague 3 - Vinohrady
Tel. (+420) 273 132 145
Mob. (+420) 777 893 308

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